We trek to Artesonraju base camp: 4250m. We walked about 5h in the valley. We passed 2 gorgeous turquoise lakes and saw so many cows … It was a good easy day.
Once we arrived at base camp, we dropped our gear to climb a little bite higher to have a better view of Artesonraju.
A friend of Beto did tried climbing it few days ago and told us that there were 3 big new opened crevasses, and the snow on the shoulder of the face was pretty bad. Knowing that, we tried to see which way we could use to climb the face. There are lots of exposures and danger on this face so we took our time to have a pretty good idea of the route we will do. It is a crucial moment.
The beginning of the glacier does not look very good. We could see some petinentes (small peak made of frozen snow), which are never a good sign! We decide to do a camp on the glacier to save some time to climb the face. Shorten the approach as plus and cons, as we have to carry tents, sleeping bags…