Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Team Red Smash
I signed up initially for the 55miles ride. But after the 15 mile water break, I lost my group. I ended up riding by myself, ahead of the 55 miles group and at the queue of the 100 miles group. At the 55 miles turn back point, I was feeling very good and decided to go for the 100 miles ride. It was a great ride, people was fantastic. And it allowed me to discover New Jersey: Piermont, NYACK … it was beautiful …
Sophie after her 100 miles ride
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
Viernes 05 de marzo de 2010. Núm. 271 Resumen de la temporada 2009 en los Andes peruanos El Pisco (5,752) es la montaña más ascendida de la Cordillera Blanca debido a su espectacular vista de cumbre y relativa facilidad. Sin embargo posee otras rutas de mucha dificultad, como la pared sur (MD), donde los montañistas Beto Pinto y la Francesa Sophie Denis, realizaron una variante de la ruta Francesa de 1977, haciendo una travesía a fin de evitar los seracs colgantes de la arista. Encontraron zonas de roca y hielo con inclinaciones de hasta 90 grados antes de salir a la cumbre. La misma pareja se dirige al Artesonraju (6,034), que a finales del 2008 sufrió un gigantesco desprendimiento en su cara suroeste que ya se ha recuperado parcialmente. Ambos realizan un intento por la cara noreste, donde encuentran nieve suelta e inestable, peligros de avalanchas y enormes grietas que surcaron hasta unos 150 m antes de la cumbre. http://montanismo.org/articulos.php?id_sec=15&id_art=2946
Tuesday, June 22, 2010
Welcome to Peru !
The French Peruvian team opened 3 new routes in the Central Range in Peru, located in Lima’s Region. In a single push, Sophie Denis and Beto Pinto opened 3 new direct lines of a difficulty level MD+.
The team climbed in a week, the North face of Suiricocha (5,495m), 9 pitches wall which finished by a little shelter with an angle > 80° made of broken hard ice and lots of loose rocks.
Then, they climbed the West Face of Manon Dos (5,500m), short wall ~3 pitches with 70º -90º angle. Very sensitive face to climb mainly due to the poor snow condition with high risk of avalanched due to numerous snow plates, giant crevasses before the shoulder and high risk of rock falls.
Then, they finished their expedition by climbing the West face of Vicunita (5,538m), 7 pitches wall which require climbing a 60m technical channel made of rocks covered partially with the hard ice with a 90º angle.
The 3 routes opened offers very nice mix climbing walls, and multi-pitches technical faces. Those climbs would be very enjoyable for experienced climbers who enjoy technical climbs in mix terrain with strong angle in the 5,000m altitude range.
We are going home happy !
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Central Range climbing trip
Climbers: Sophie Denis and Beto Pinto
Climb the North Face of Suiricocha peak
- First woman ascent: Sophie Denis
- We opened a new route, that we named : Everything Is Possible
- Name meaning: Everything is possible, is my motto. It is what drives my life and helps me to go beyond my comfort zone and reinvent myself.
Climb the West Face of Manon peak
- First woman ascent: Sophie Denis
- We opened a new route, that we named : Beyond Survival
- Name meaning: In support to the cancer survivors.
Climb the West Face of Vicunita peak
- First woman ascent of the West Face: Sophie Denis
- We opened a new route, that we named : Sacreted Ayahuasca
- IName meaning: In honnor to the Inca plant used to visit the past and the future
Traverse and Climb of Paccha Peak
Suiricocha North Face Climb Open the new route : Everything Is Possible
1/ The approach
The approach to the glacier was a mess. To reach the glacier either we go down the moraine or up the moraine then go down. We decide to go up but there was no way to go down, it was very steep cliffs. So we turn back, and go down the moraine. The way was clear. Our last obstacle was to find a way to cross a river. It did not take us too much time so we had been lucky. We reach the glacier at 4:25 am. We spend more than an hour which put us right away behind schedule. Once you reach the glacier, you put on harness and crampons.
2/ The glacier traverse
The glacier part is the approach to your face that you will climb. Glacier are tricky due to the numerous crevasses. From the distance this glacier does not seem too active, pretty flat, and we expected not difficulty. Unfortunately, the glacier was nest of crevasses, it felt like if you were in the middle of a eggs field, which indeed you will smash eggs at any steps.This glacier is full of crevasses in every possible way, it was dark, we could not see anything. So we start walking pretty slowly which made even more behind schedule. The freaky part was the big noise of the crevasses cracking under your steps. So it was nothing like relaxing to traverse that glacier.
Snow was in excellent condition. We both felt very strong, and very confident. So we start our climb by climbing together, just linked to each other. It was feeling really good, that we climbed like that more half of the face. A smooth, efficient climbing. Sun start shining, it was around 7am. Angle was between 45 to 80degree. So far the climb was pretty straight forward. Then we approached to the final part which includes climbing a channel. We decide to go that way when we prepare our climb the day before. This part was a little more tricky as it required to rock climb, with ice axe and crampons.Per safety we used snow pickets.
4/ Fake Summit Unfortunately, that summit was a fake summit. When we looked up we saw a big rock that we assumed was summit. Beto decided to try to turn around the big rock to see if there is a snow channel that we can used. When you are opening a route you have a rough idea of the way you want to go but there is still a high level of uncertainty of what you gonna find. That is why you need to explore. In that case, Beto had been successful in his exploration and find a way to the summit made of broken hard ice and rocks. This very last part is very psychological.
5/ SummitWe arrived at summit at 9am. We climbed the 8/9 pitches face very fast, in about 3h. The view is stunning. There is no word to express this beauty. The sky color range was from almost white to blue. It was beautiful. We rest a little, eat, take pictures, then go down. 6/Climbed down We went down straightway. Rappel was good. But we had to go down fast until we find a safe place. Because on our way up, we broke big piece of hard ice which if they fall could create either avalanche or rock fall. We did not have enough snow pickets, so we down climbed for a short time. We both felt very strong so it was very fine. (you do not use protection when you down climb so you are more exposed) 7/ safe place We rest, eat, relax. We were at the beginning of the glacier 8/ glacier traverse With the day light we can really appreciate the size of the crevasse. Once again this phase was delicate. We saw some lack in the glacier as deep as 40ish meters. At one point we had to wak on the ridge of 2 giant crevasses. I was not really happy about it. The rescue technique was jumping in the other side. So if I fall in crevasse a. Beto will jump in crevasse b. 9/ back to base camp