Showing posts with label Cho Oyu. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cho Oyu. Show all posts

Sunday, May 8, 2011

Sophie SUMMIT CHO OYU on 05/05/11 without oxygen

Sophie jumping at the top of Cho Oyu, 6th highest peak in the world
Summit day : 05/05/11 at 1pm

"best Summit day ever"

Despite an awful night at camp 3 : The wind almost crushed our tent and the snow kept being blown into our tent. Moreover, we did not have any sleeping bags. The night was extremely cold, so Mama and I, had to wake up every 2h to boil water to refill with hot water our small water bottles to keep us warm.


Sophie in the tent - freezing cold

The climbing plan was starting at 3am. We should have share the "breaking the trail" effort among 4 teams : Bolivian, Spanish, French and us. That was initially the plan, but due to the wind storm, we were all kind of down, and decide to start around 5:30am.


View from the Yellow Band - Start climbing at 5:30am

The summit climb starts by climbing the "yellow band" or about 200meters of blue ice and rock more or less vertical. this year is particularly difficult because it is a fairly dry year.
As we are the first for the summit push, we climbed this section alpine style (without/limited access to rope). I do feel very comfortable with such terrain, but I would not call it an easy climbing section.


Yellow band

The rest of the climb was a dream. Once we were half way, and because we start climbing so late, the question of turning around popped. But I checked myself, and I am thinking, "well! My toes are ok. My fingers are not cold. So let's do it!




Here we go, the last steps  ... which took us a long time, as the summit is a long, infinite plateau .... We finally summit on May 5th, 2011 at 1pm. I am the First Woman in 2011 to summit Cho Oyu !


Sophie at the Summit. I dedicate my Cho Oyu Summit to Raphael my godson

The views are stunning! Cho Oyu climb with or without summit is a MUST. the views are just breath taking !


View on the way down from the Summit

We were pretty tired. Fully aware that most of the accidents happen on the way down, we did not rush and take the way down easy. 



We went down to Camp 2 everybody was exhausted. People could not even walk down. They just sat down and let themselves slide down ....


for the little story Ulie Stek and Don Bowy summit the same day than us :p

05/08/11 - Day #28 Cho Oyu - Zanbu to Kathmandu



Friday, May 6, 2011

Cho Oyu Daly News: May 5th 2011 SUMMITS for Sophie

SUMMITS
Ben has called in to let us know that Siddhi and Sophie has made a great effort to reach the summit of Cho Oyu in just over 22 days from Kathmandu! They had planned only to do a carry to C3 but instead felt strong, saw a good weather window and had some other teams to help push the route through. They topped out at 1:45pm Kathmandu time on the 5th and had great weather. They are making their way to ABC where they will be greeted with Lhasa Beer and a summit cake by Ratna!


Ben vient de nous informer que Siddhi et Sophie viennent d'atteindre le sommet de Cho Oyu au prix d'un bel effort et en à peine 22 jours depuis leurs départs de Katmandou! Ils avaient simplement prévu de monter du matériel au camp 3 mais se sentant en grande forme et profitant d'une fenêtre de beau temps, ils ont continué leur route jusqu'au sommet avec l'aide d'autres équipes qui tentaient le somme au même moment. Ils ont atteint le sommet le 5 mai à 13h45 (heure de Katmandou) et ont pu profiter de beau temps au cours de l'ascension. Ils sont en train de redescendre au camp de base avancé ou ils seront fétés avec de la bière Lhasa et un gateau spécialement préparé par Ratna !



NEXT UP!
Ben and Keith are feeling strong themselves after a good night at C2 and they will make a bid in the next weather window which looks to be around the 9th or 10th. They still have nearly two weeks left before they need to leave ABC so they do have plenty of time for good window.
Ben et Keith se sentent également très bien après un bonne nuit de repos au camp 2 et feront un tentative pour le sommet vers le 9 ou le 10, c'est à dire dès que la météo le premettra. Il leur reste encore environ 2 semaines avant qu'ils ne doivent rebrousser chemin et quitter le camp de base avancé, ce qui ne devrait pas poser de problème pour trouver des conditions météo favorables.
Enjoy listening in to Ben's hoarse voice as he shares the news! (here)


As a reminder the following program is described in a previous message: LHOTSE! 
Pour rappel voici le program qui est suivi au jour près!!! LHOTSE!

05/06/11 - Day #26 Cho Oyu - C2 to ABC