Back to Kathmandu - Manaslu sum up in very short

I've just came back to Kathmandu today. Trek out via Larke Path was really good

Sophie summit Manaslu on Oct 4th 2011

WITHOUT Oxygen

Quick Manaslu climb sum up:


Approach: Sept 16th, after 8 days trek, I've finally made it to Base Camp. I have trek in with the donkey drivers. We had lots of work to make the way safe for the donkeys : building bridge, path, help the donkeys crossing rivers .... it was quite of an experience
Arrive at Base Camp on Sept. 24th.
First Carry: On Sept. 25th, I did a first carry to Camp 1. I carried about 15kg, and I was feeling very good. At that time, I knew that I could keep going and go up to 7000m with an heavy load. I did not sleep at Camp1 (5700m). I just went up to Camp 1 and drop a first load of gear, and went down to Base Camp (4700m)
Waiting for window: Sept. 26th and Sept 27th, it snowed a lot. Everyone went down the mountain as there was lots of avalanches between Camp 1 and Camp 2 and above in some sections.


Summit Push:
Sept 28th : Climb and sleep at Camp 1 (5700m) - load 15 kg
Sept 29th : Climb and sleep at Camp 2 (6400m) - load 30kg
Sept 30th : Climb and sleep at Camp 3 (6800m) - left behind me at Camp 2 half of the load - carry only 15kg up to Camp 3
Oct 1st : Go down to Camp 2 to pick up the remaining of my gear that I left the day before, then climb back up to Camp 3. Sleep at Camp 3
Oct 2nd : Sleep at Camp3 - wait for good weather
Oct 3rd : Climb and sleep at Camp 4 (7450m)
Oct 4th : Summit without O2 (As usual, I did carry a O2 bottle with me up to 8000m just in case, but I was feeling really good, and I did not use it. I start late, at 7am. So I did not carry my stove and pot :-). After summit, I went down to Camp 4 and sleep at Camp 4
Oct 5th : Went down to Base Camp
Oct 6th : Packing my bags at Base Camp
Oct 7th : Went down to Samogon, and start my trek out via Lake Pass

Sophie on the trek out : Manaslu Circuit Larke Pass

Pictures, Videos, .... more coming later ....

Manaslu - Climbing Strategy

MANASLU EXPEDITION - CLIMBING STRATEGY

I will climb Manaslu with no Guide, Porter, or Sherpa. I will be self-sufficient, meaning that I will need to carry up to the mountain all my belongs: Tent, Gas, Food, Personal Gear ...

I have estimate that my bag pack should weight ~28kg.

Instead of carrying 28kg in once, I will do carry. Or in other words, I will carry about 15kg of gear up to half way between each camp. Then I will depsosit the gear on the snow and attached it to a secure snow picket that I will place.

It is a totally different technic that my previous climb which will allow me to 1/ carry less in once, 2/ insure a good acclimatization as I will go high during the day and sleep low at night.

Altitude Chart

Manaslu - Gear List

Manaslu Route Description

MANASLU EXPEDITION - ROUTE DESCRIPTON

from www.enepalholidays.com

Base Camp to Camp 1



BC is located at 4,665 meters and while it is well situated on rock and protected from winds, the valley’s clouds condense at this altitude and often result in significant snowfall. The climbing begins immediately out of base camp as we step onto the Manaslu Glacier. The route will be heavily crevassed. I will use fix rope over the more dangerous sections. Camp I at 5,500 meters, which is located in a comfortable col at the head of the Manaslu glacier at the foot of the North Peak, a separate satellite mountain of Manaslu. The climb from base camp to camp one takes ~3hours.


Camp 1 to Camp 2


From Camp 1, the route continues up steep slopes to a massive and often highly active icefall, but weaving between seracs, I passe underneath the icefall to reach a steep slope that will be fixed with rope up to Camp II. Camp 2 is sheltered by a series of ice cliffs at 6,300 meters. Camp two is located at the top of the serac section of the climb on a somewhat flat area safe from danger, although this campsite can receive a lot of snow accumulation. This is the most technical section of the climb and takes ~5hours.

From www.connect.in.com

Camp 2 to Camp 3


From Camp 2, the route continues up the upper glacier, traveling through a series of snow shelves before ascending a steeper snow slope to reach a large col with magnificent views of the surrounding peaks. Camp 3 is placed on a flat saddle that sits just below the col, hence the reason this campsite receives strong winds frequently. The climb from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is the less strenuous day by being one of the shortest on the mountain and takes between 1.5-3 hours.


Camp 3 to Camp 4


From Camp 3 at 6,700 meters, the route continues up the remaining glacier weaving through seracs with some short steep sections of ice and snow. Then, the route goes directly up the steeper northeast slopes, and passing through some short ice bulges to reach an upper snow slope. There is an exposed traverse with remains of past expeditions in the shape of old abandoned and destroyed tents which will take me to Camp IV at 7,300 meters. The summit, which has not been in our view since Samagaon, is now deceivingly close, however, it is still a long way to go. The climb from camp three to camp four takes ~6 hours.

From http://www.connect.in.com/

Camp 4 to Summit


From Camp 4, I will climb up snow slopes which involve short, steep sections in potentially deep snow before arriving at the final pyramid slope. There is a comfortable false summit just below the true summit, which is a spot where many people stop. The true summit is reached with an exposed technical traverse for around 70 meters in linear distance. The climb from camp four to the summit takes ~7 hours with 2-4 hours for the descent to camp four.


The descent can be fast, but I will stay at Camp 4 to clean up the Camps.

Topo Map

From http://www.manymaps.com/