Happy Holidays

click on the picture to see the video

Warmest thoughts and

Best Wishes for a

Wonderful holiday season!

May all of your dreams come true

- Sophie

Extraits du livre "LE MONT ANALOGUE (1952)" de René Daumal

Le Mont Analogue de René Daumal Click here to read it in English

Le poète se penche sur notre passion alpine et tente de répondre avec des mots

vertigineux à la question du pourquoi ? On l’écoute. On connait la réponse plate et

convenue de Georges Mallory : “…parce qu’elle existe, parce qu’elle est là !..”

~ • ~

Définitions: « L’alpinisme est l’art de parcourir les montagnes

en affrontant les plus grands dangers avec la plus grande prudence.

On appelle ici art l’accomplissement d’un savoir dans une action. »

~ • ~

On ne peut pas rester toujours sur les sommets.
Il faut redescendre…
A quoi bon, alors ?
Voici : le haut connaît le bas, le bas ne connaît pas le haut.

~ • ~

On monte,
on voit.
On redescend,
on ne voit plus ;
mais on a vu.

~ • ~

Il y a un art de se diriger dans les basses régions,

par le souvenir de ce qu’on a vu lorsqu’on était plus haut.
Quand on ne peut plus voir,
on peut du moins encore savoir.

~ • ~

Un compagnon beaucoup plus expérimenté que moi me dit :

« Quand les pieds ne veulent plus vous porter, on marche avec la tête. »

The Art of Climbing Mountains

The Art of Climbing Mountains
René Daumal
Extraits du livre "LE MONT ANALOGUE (1952)" en français



You cannot always stay on the summits

You have to come down again . . .

So what’s the point?
Only this: what is above knows what is below,
what is below does not know what is above.

~ • ~

One climbs,
One sees.
One descends,
One sees no longer,
But one has seen.

~ • ~

There is an art of conducting oneself in the lower regions
by the memory of what one saw higher up.
When one can no longer see,
one can at least still know.”

~ • ~

A climber far more experienced than I told me,
“when your feet will no longer carry you,
you have to walk with your head.”

~ • ~

This excerpt is from René Daumal’s Mount Analogue: A Tale of Non-Euclidian and Symbolically Authentic Mountaineering Adventures, Woodstock, NY: Overlook Press, 2004, pp. 105–108, and is used here with their kind permission. Copyright © 1981 Editions Gallimard, Paris. English translation Copyright © 2004 by Carol Cosman. For more information contact The Overlook Press, One Overlook Drive, Woodstock, NY 12498.

Sophie Denis OFFICIAL Website



www.sophiedenis.com



Baltoro Glacier by Sophie Denis



Article in the famous climbing website KAIRN - in French

Dernières news des expés by Cedric Larcher I KAIRN
http://www.kairn.com/news__77304.dernieres-news-infos-informations-nouvelles-expes.html


*** Sophie Denis en route pour les 14x8000

La française installée aux Etats-Unis tentera de réaliser 6x8000m en 2012. Elle a déjà gravit 4x8000m en 2011, au cours de 5 expéditions. Le K2 lui avait finalement échappé à cause de mauvaises conditions climatiques.
Elle compte actuellement 5x8000m au palmarès
En cas de réussite elle deviendrait la première française a réaliser ce challenge (homme et femmes confondus)


 
News available as well on the following websites:

Article in Diari Newspaper - in Spanish

Annapurna y Dhaulagiri, sus próximos objetivos
MONTAÑISMO I ES EL NOVENO ‘OCHOMIL’ QUE CONQUISTA EL ALPINISTA TARRACONENSE
DIARI Newspaper ; POR FRANCESC JOAN
 

Nov. 11th, 2011 : INTERVIEW print in DIARI DE TARRAGONA Newspaper - in Spanish

SOPHIE DENIS n ALPINISTA : ‘En la cima del Everest decidí dejar la banca’
POR FRANCESC JOAN I DIARI DE

Ha cambiado el maletín de ejecutivo por el piolet; el traje chaqueta por la chaqueta de pluma; los rascacielos deNueva York por las cumbres de Himalaya; y los vaivenes de la bolsa de NuevaYork, donde trabajó desde 2004 a 2010 para Crédit Agricole, por los desniveles de las cimas nevadas. La ascensión al Everest en 2008 la cautivó, y desde entonces no tiene límites. Quiere ser la Edurne Pasabán francesa. Su lema: ‘Todo es posible’.

more : click here to READ the FULL PAGE ARTICLE

Happy Thanksgiving !

There isn't anything as exciting as being at the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade in person.
Enjoying watching the giant balloons floating in the air in the streets of Manhattan beneath brilliant sunshine, with the festive mood



On Wednesday afternoon, we went to see the balloon being inflated:

credit : cfnews13.com

Thursday morning we went to see the Parade:

NY AAC Dinner

I had a really good time at the American Alpine Club (AAC) Annual Dinner, New York Chapter.

Congratulation to Phil Erard for organizing such a great event.

My table was lots of fun. I had at my table of the AAC Past and Present Presidents, Mark Richey and Steve Swenson, with their respective beautiful wives Theressa and Anne. They are very interesting, low key, and funny people.

Chocolate Fashion Show New York 2011

Sophie Denis Runway Model at the Chocolate Fashion Show for Chef Vanessa Greeley


Chocolate Fashion Show:
The 14th annual NY Chocolate Show is now in full swing. To get the feasting started, on Wednesday night 14 different models strutted their stuff -- but instead of wearing haute couture, they wore haute chocolate. A lot of it, in fact. This year's theme, "Celebrate Broadway" paid homage to Broadway plays of the past and present, from Les Miserables to Wicked.

more : http://www.chocolateshow.com/salon_event.aspx?event_id=27

Sophie Denis and Michele Greeley are getting ready for the show

New York Chocolate Show kicks off on Broadway

The Cirque du Chocolat

Out fit inspired from the show Zarkana (Cirque du Soleil)

Photos: Models Strut In Edible Attire At The Chocolate Fashion Show 2011
From Sam Horine I Gothamist
http://gothamist.com/2011/11/10/photos_chocolate_fashion_show_2011.php#photo-5

English.news.cn

2011-11-10 21:21:26

Editor: Bi Mingxin

http://news.xinhuanet.com/english2010/photo/2011-11/10/c_131240034_3.htm 

 

The 2011 Chocolate Fashion Show

ShowTaken: November 9, 2011
Credit: Natasha Ryan
http://newyork.metromix.com/events/standard_photo_gallery/the-2011-chocolate-fashion/2909434/content
 



 

Indian Summer in Central Park

 Back to New York City

I love running in Central Park.

Indian Summer in Central Park is so beautiful.

"Alpiniste Extraordinaire" ...

I am honored to be refered to as "Alpiniste Extraordinaire", take a look below

Sophie, la petite princesse de l’Himalaya ... Article Le Parisien

Sophie, la petite princesse de l’Himalaya

Le Parisien 
Maxime Fieschi

Publié le 05.11.2011


Sophie Denis, une alpiniste originaire de Guyancourt, s’est lancée dans un formidable challenge : gravir 14 sommets de plus de 8000 m en trois ans
http://www.leparisien.fr/yvelines-78/sophie-la-petite-princesse-de-l-himalaya-05-11-2011-1703344.php

Bio Express :
http://www.leparisien.fr/yvelines-78/bio-express-05-11-2011-1703341.php

TV interview --- in french

http://www.tvfil78.com/le78/article-le78-26-10-2011.html

Ascension of the Mont Toubkal

I am flying today to Marrakech in Morroco to climb the Mont Toubkal highest peak in Morroco. I am coming back on November 2nd

more info (in french): Le Toubkal (4167 m)


Point culminant de l’Afrique du Nord, le Djebel Toubkal domine de ses 4167 m les vallées encaissées où se dissimulent les très beaux villages berbères de Imlil et Tachdirt : la vie y est restée la même depuis des siècles, à l’ombre des amandiers et noyers centenaires, ponctuée par les rires des enfants et les vives couleurs des tenues des femmes berbères. Au pas des mulets de notre caravane, quittant la chaleur de la plaine pour la fraîcheur de l’altitude, vous parcourerez les terres des Bergers, où le thé à la menthe goûté dans le jour déclinant retrouve toute sa saveur. Un très beau voyage, dans le temps et dans l’espace, au fil des plateaux arides et des oasis de verdures des villages, ponctué par l’ascension du Toubkal.

C'est le massif ancien du Haut Atlas de Marrakech aux roches primitives et aux reliefs élevés et drus.

Il culmine au mont Toubkal, à 4167 m

Welcome Paris

Paris by night (from Sophie Denis)

Last day in Kathmandu

It was fantastic journey

An experience for life

A life experience

Buddhist mandalas

Mandalas are works of sacred art in Tantric (Tibetan) Buddhism. The word "mandala" comes from a Sanskrit word that generally means "circle," and mandalas are indeed primarily recognizable by their concentric circles and other geometric figures. Mandalas are far more than geometical figures, however. For Tantric Buddhists, they are rich with symbolism and sacred meaning. In fact, the etymology of the word "mandala" suggests not just a circle but a "container of essence."


Overview


Simply stated, a mandala is a sacred geometric figure that represents the universe. When completed, a mandala becomes a sacred area that serves as a receptable for deities and a collection point of universal forces. By mentally entering a mandala and proceeding to its center, a person is symbolically guided through the cosmos to the essence of reality. By constructing a mandala, a monk ritually participates in the Buddha's teachings.



In Tibetan Buddhism, contemplation of sacred images is central to religious ritual, and a mandala is one of the most important of these sacred images. A Tibetan mandala is usually made with careful placement of colored sand, and accordingly is known in Tibetan as dul-tson-kyil-khor, or "mandala of colored powders." In China, Japan and Tibet, mandalas can also be made in bronze or stone three-dimensional figures. In recent years, a variety of mandalas have been created using computer graphics, although these are usually created by non-Buddhists and are not considered sacred.

Constructing a Mandala

The process of constructing a mandala is a sacred ritual. It is a meditative, painstaking process that can take days or even weeks to complete.



Before a monk may participate in the construction of a mandala, he must undergo a lengthy period of artistic and philosophical study. In the Namgyal monastery, the personal monastery of Dalai Lama, this period lasts three years.



Traditionally, four monks work together on a single mandala. The mandala is divided into quadrants with one monk assigned to each. Midway through the process, each monk receives an assistant who helps fill in the colors while the primary monk continues to work on detailed outlines.
 Mandalas are constructed from the center outward, beginning with a dot in the center. With the placement of the center dot, the mandala is consecrated to a partcular deity. This deity will usually be depicted in an image over the center dot, although some mandalas are purely geometric.


Lines are then drawn through the center dot to the four corners, creating triangular geometric patterns. These lines are then used to construct a square "palace" with four gates. The monks usually keep to their own quadrant at this point.

From the inner square, the monks move outward to a series of concentric circles. Here the monks work in tandem, moving all around the mandala. They wait until each section is entirely completed before moving outward together. This ensures that balance is always maintained.

Although some mandalas are painted and serve as an enduring object of contemplation, the traditional Tibetan sand mandala, when completed, is deliberately destroyed. The sand is poured into a nearby stream or river to distribute the positive energies it contains. This ritual reminds those who painstakingly constructed the mandala of the central Buddhist teaching of the impermanence of all things.

 Mandala Symbolism


In Buddhism, mandalas are rich with symbolism that evokes various aspects of Buddhist teaching and tradition. This is part of what makes the creation of a mandala a sacred act, for as they work, the monks are imparting the Buddha's teachings.
Outside the square temple are several concentric circles. The outermost circle is usually decorated with stylized scrollwork resembling a ring of fire. This ring of fire symbolizes the process of transformation humans must undergo before being able to enter the sacred territory within. It both bars the unitiated and symbolizes the burning of ignorance.
The next circle inward is a ring of thunderbolt or diamond scepters, which stands for indestructability and illumination. This is followed by a circle of eight graveyards, representing the eight aspects of human consciousness that bind a person to the cycle of rebirth. Finally, the innermost ring is made of lotus leaves, signifying religious rebirth.


The square structure in the middle of a mandala is a palace for the resident deities and a temple containing the essence of the Buddha. The square temple's four elaborate gates symbolize a variety of ideas, including:

•   The four boundless thoughts: loving-kindness, compassion, sympathy and equanimity


•   The four directions: south, north, east and west


Within the square palace or temple are images of deities, which are usually the Five Dyani Buddhas (the Great Buddhas of Wisdom). The iconography of these deities is rich in symbolism in itself. Each of the Dyani Buddhas represents a direction (center, south, north, east and west), cosmic element (like form and consciousness), earthly element (ether, air, water, earth and fire), and a particular type of wisdom. Each Buddha is empowered to overcome a particular evil, such as ignorance, envy or hatred. The Five Dyani Buddhas are generally identical in appearance, but are each represented iconographically with a particular color, mudra (hand gesture), and animal. See the article on the Five Dyani Buddhas for more information.


In the center of the mandala is an image of the chief deity, who is placed over the center dot described above. Because it has no dimensions, the center dot represents the seed or center of the universe.

Types of Mandalas


Tibetan Mandalas come in a variety of forms, but most are variations on the basic themes outlined above. Broadly speaking, there are two basic types of mandalas:
•    Garbha-dhatu (Sanskrit: “womb world”; Japanese: taizo-kai), in which the movement is from the one to the many
•    Vajra-dhatu (Sanskrit: “diamond world”; Japanese kongo-kai), from the many into one

Back from white water kayaking

White water kayak is quite an intense experience. You have no control over the water, experience and technic would help you, but as I have none, so the first days were really tough ! I drink lots of water, swim a lot. Not as relaxing as expected, I have to admit :-)

I kayak on the Trisli River

Video of me doing a T-Rescue : White Water Kayak - Sophie doing a T-Rescue
More about the Trisuli River:
The Trishuli is named after the trishula or trident of Shiva, a powerful god in the Hindu pantheon.There is a legend that says high in the Himalayas at Gosaikunda, Shiva drove his trident into the ground to create three springs – the source of the river and hence its name Trisuli

Trisuli river starts from Betrawati (625m) and flows to Narayanghat (170m) covering distance of 141 kms. The river is approchable from Kathmandu by vehicle in 2 to 4 hours' drive and the river days would be from 4 to 7. The difficulty in class is 3+ to 4

http://www.adventureaves.com/

Après l'effort le réconfort ...

I am going White Water Kayaking for 5 days.
Should be fun ....

Back to Kathmandu - Manaslu sum up in very short

I've just came back to Kathmandu today. Trek out via Larke Path was really good

Sophie summit Manaslu on Oct 4th 2011

WITHOUT Oxygen

Quick Manaslu climb sum up:


Approach: Sept 16th, after 8 days trek, I've finally made it to Base Camp. I have trek in with the donkey drivers. We had lots of work to make the way safe for the donkeys : building bridge, path, help the donkeys crossing rivers .... it was quite of an experience
Arrive at Base Camp on Sept. 24th.
First Carry: On Sept. 25th, I did a first carry to Camp 1. I carried about 15kg, and I was feeling very good. At that time, I knew that I could keep going and go up to 7000m with an heavy load. I did not sleep at Camp1 (5700m). I just went up to Camp 1 and drop a first load of gear, and went down to Base Camp (4700m)
Waiting for window: Sept. 26th and Sept 27th, it snowed a lot. Everyone went down the mountain as there was lots of avalanches between Camp 1 and Camp 2 and above in some sections.


Summit Push:
Sept 28th : Climb and sleep at Camp 1 (5700m) - load 15 kg
Sept 29th : Climb and sleep at Camp 2 (6400m) - load 30kg
Sept 30th : Climb and sleep at Camp 3 (6800m) - left behind me at Camp 2 half of the load - carry only 15kg up to Camp 3
Oct 1st : Go down to Camp 2 to pick up the remaining of my gear that I left the day before, then climb back up to Camp 3. Sleep at Camp 3
Oct 2nd : Sleep at Camp3 - wait for good weather
Oct 3rd : Climb and sleep at Camp 4 (7450m)
Oct 4th : Summit without O2 (As usual, I did carry a O2 bottle with me up to 8000m just in case, but I was feeling really good, and I did not use it. I start late, at 7am. So I did not carry my stove and pot :-). After summit, I went down to Camp 4 and sleep at Camp 4
Oct 5th : Went down to Base Camp
Oct 6th : Packing my bags at Base Camp
Oct 7th : Went down to Samogon, and start my trek out via Lake Pass

Sophie on the trek out : Manaslu Circuit Larke Pass

Pictures, Videos, .... more coming later ....

sommet du MANASLU le mardi 4 octobre 2011

Paris, jeudi 6 octobre 2011
Sophie vient de me téléphoner vers 17h00 pendant quelques secondes, avec un téléphone qu'elle a emprunté, pour me dire qu'elle avait atteint le sommet du MANASLU le mardi 4 octobre 2011 et qu'elle allait bien. Qu'elle était fière de son succès et que dès qu'elle serait dans un lieu où elle pourrait communiquer elle donnerait plus de précisions.
Elle voulait surtout rassurer tout le monde après un challenge si difficile.
Je dois dire que, pour la première fois, j'étais inquiet.
Yves Denis

Manaslu - Climbing Strategy

MANASLU EXPEDITION - CLIMBING STRATEGY

I will climb Manaslu with no Guide, Porter, or Sherpa. I will be self-sufficient, meaning that I will need to carry up to the mountain all my belongs: Tent, Gas, Food, Personal Gear ...

I have estimate that my bag pack should weight ~28kg.

Instead of carrying 28kg in once, I will do carry. Or in other words, I will carry about 15kg of gear up to half way between each camp. Then I will depsosit the gear on the snow and attached it to a secure snow picket that I will place.

It is a totally different technic that my previous climb which will allow me to 1/ carry less in once, 2/ insure a good acclimatization as I will go high during the day and sleep low at night.

Altitude Chart

Manaslu - Gear List

Manaslu Route Description

MANASLU EXPEDITION - ROUTE DESCRIPTON

from www.enepalholidays.com

Base Camp to Camp 1



BC is located at 4,665 meters and while it is well situated on rock and protected from winds, the valley’s clouds condense at this altitude and often result in significant snowfall. The climbing begins immediately out of base camp as we step onto the Manaslu Glacier. The route will be heavily crevassed. I will use fix rope over the more dangerous sections. Camp I at 5,500 meters, which is located in a comfortable col at the head of the Manaslu glacier at the foot of the North Peak, a separate satellite mountain of Manaslu. The climb from base camp to camp one takes ~3hours.


Camp 1 to Camp 2


From Camp 1, the route continues up steep slopes to a massive and often highly active icefall, but weaving between seracs, I passe underneath the icefall to reach a steep slope that will be fixed with rope up to Camp II. Camp 2 is sheltered by a series of ice cliffs at 6,300 meters. Camp two is located at the top of the serac section of the climb on a somewhat flat area safe from danger, although this campsite can receive a lot of snow accumulation. This is the most technical section of the climb and takes ~5hours.

From www.connect.in.com

Camp 2 to Camp 3


From Camp 2, the route continues up the upper glacier, traveling through a series of snow shelves before ascending a steeper snow slope to reach a large col with magnificent views of the surrounding peaks. Camp 3 is placed on a flat saddle that sits just below the col, hence the reason this campsite receives strong winds frequently. The climb from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is the less strenuous day by being one of the shortest on the mountain and takes between 1.5-3 hours.


Camp 3 to Camp 4


From Camp 3 at 6,700 meters, the route continues up the remaining glacier weaving through seracs with some short steep sections of ice and snow. Then, the route goes directly up the steeper northeast slopes, and passing through some short ice bulges to reach an upper snow slope. There is an exposed traverse with remains of past expeditions in the shape of old abandoned and destroyed tents which will take me to Camp IV at 7,300 meters. The summit, which has not been in our view since Samagaon, is now deceivingly close, however, it is still a long way to go. The climb from camp three to camp four takes ~6 hours.

From http://www.connect.in.com/

Camp 4 to Summit


From Camp 4, I will climb up snow slopes which involve short, steep sections in potentially deep snow before arriving at the final pyramid slope. There is a comfortable false summit just below the true summit, which is a spot where many people stop. The true summit is reached with an exposed technical traverse for around 70 meters in linear distance. The climb from camp four to the summit takes ~7 hours with 2-4 hours for the descent to camp four.


The descent can be fast, but I will stay at Camp 4 to clean up the Camps.

Topo Map

From http://www.manymaps.com/

Sophie's Recovery Process

Broad Peak Summit Pictures

Sophie climbed Broad Peak, 12th highest peak in the world located in Pakistan

After summiting Lhotse, 4th highest peak in the world located in Nepal, and Cho Oyu, 6th highest peak in the world located in Tibet, Sophie found the mental and physical strength to climb and summit Broad Peak on July 25th 2011, at her 4th Broad Peak' Summit attempt in one month.

• Read more ... (cick here)
• Daily Video Journal
• Pictures 

Sophie hopes that her outstanding effort will inspire people to do,

and to send an empowering message that Everything Is Possible! 

Don't give up, believe in yourself!