Friday, December 24, 2010

Christmas Quiz

Quiz Questions and Answers:
- You can choose only one answer per question
- Answers at the bottom
Do not hesitate to post your score on the blog :S  GOOD LUCK ...


QUESTION

1/ Who is today the Secretary-General of the United Nations?
a- Kofie Annan
b- Liu Xiaobo
c- José Ramos-Horta
d- Ban Ki-moon


2/ What is The Foundation for Post Conflict Development Mission Statement?
a- Education * Action * Development
b- Passion * Peace * Awareness
c- Youth * Communication * Education


3/ The Millennium Development Goals is consisting of how many international development goals?
a- 4
b- 6
c- 8
d- 10


4/ Is “Promote gender equality and empower women” one of the Millennium Development Goals?
a- Yes
b- No 


5/ The African Union is a union consisting of how many African states?
a- 23
b- 33
c- 43
d- 53


6/ How many peaks in the world are above 8000 meters?
a- 9
b- 14
c- 17
d- 21


7/ How many women have ever climbed all the peaks above 8000m?
a- 102
b- 72
c- 22
d- 1


8/ French Climber Sophie Denis opened 5 new climbing routes in 2010, in which country ?
a- France
b- Nepal
c- Peru
d- Bolivia


9/ Who said “It always seems impossible until its done.”?
a- Oscar White
b- William Shakespeare
c- Nelson Mandela
d- Bill Clinton


10/ Who said: “Getting to the top is optional, but getting down is mandatory. A lot of people get focused on the summit and forget that.”
a- Beto Pinto Teledo
b- Reinhold Messner
c- Jinpa Sherpa
d- Ed Viesturs


ANSWER
Q1: Who is today the Secretary-General of the United Nations?
A1: d- Ban Ki-moon
Learn more : http://www.un.org/en


Q2: What is The Foundation for Post Conflict Development Mission Statement?
A2: a- Education * Action * Development
Learn more : http://www.postconflictdev.org/


Q3: The Millennium Development Goals is consisting of how many international development goals?
A3: c- 8
Video : http://un.org//millenniumgoals/video_worldcup.shtml
Learn more : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Millennium_Development_Goals


Q4: Is “Promote gender equality and empower women” one of the Millennium Development Goals?
A4: a-Yes


Q5: The African Union is a union consisting of how many African states?
A5: d- 53
Learn more : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/African_Union


Q6: How many peaks in the world are above 8000 meters?
A6: b- 14


Q7: How many women have ever climbed all the peaks above 8000m?
A7: d- 1 *
* The first woman who claimed to have summited all 14 eight-thousanders was Oh Eun-Sun of South Korea, stating she completed the set by summiting Annapurna on April 27, 2010.Doubts about this claim have been raised by several parties and an inquiry by the Korean Alpine Federation (KAF) declared her summit claim for Kangchenjunga 2009 "unlikely". Their doubts add to those previously brought forward by rival Edurne Pasaban, which moved Himalayan chronicler Elizabeth Hawley this Spring (2010) to tag the summit as “disputed."


Q8: French Climber Sophie Denis opened 5 new climbing routes in 2010 in which country ?
A8: c- Peru
Sophie opened the following New routes in Peru in June and July 2010:
- New route in Huantsan West Summit : "Les Trois Mousquetaires" Sophie is the first woman to summit Huantsan West.
- New route in Huantsan North Summit : "Illusion" Sophie is the first woman to summit Huantsan North.
- New route in North Face of Suiricocha : "Everything Is Possible" Sophie is the first woman to summit Suiricocha.
- New route in West Face of Manon Dos: "Beyond Survivor" Sophie is the first woman to summit Manon Dos.
- New route in West Face of Vicunita : "Sacred Ayahuasca" Sophie is the first woman to summit the West Face of Vicunita.


Q9: Who said "“It always seems impossible until its done.”?
A9: c- Nelson Mandela


Q10: Who said: “Getting to the top is optional, but getting down is mandatory. A lot of people get focused on the summit and forget that.”
A10: d- Ed Viesturs

Monday, December 20, 2010

Get inspired ....

"It is always too early to give up. It is never too late to do"

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Le Col Cashmere

LE COL CASHMERE the French cashmere snood

webiste : https://lecolcashmere.com/

Sophie Denis modeling for Le Col Cashmere

Monday, December 13, 2010

Sport: an instrument of peace

“Sport has the power to change the world, the power to inspire and the power to unite people in a way little else can – it is an instrument of peace.” – Nelson Mandela

Saturday, November 27, 2010

Story board - Photo shoot Nov. 24th 2010

Photographer Ian Macdonald-Smith

Pictures will be displayed soon

Friday, November 26, 2010

Thanksgiving Day

Thanksgiving Day, currently celebrated on the fourth Thursday in November, has been an annual tradition in the United States since 1863. Historically, Thanksgiving began as a tradition of celebrating the harvest of the year.

Traditional Thankgiving meal

Crispy, Golden Roast Turkey

Mmm! Sweet potatoes topped with creamy toasted marshmallows

Marguerite and Sean, Thanks a mill for sharing your special day!

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

Monday, November 22, 2010

Sophie Denis New American Alpine Club Member

AAC Annual Dinner 2010

Bo Parfet - Sophie Denis - Dick Bass courtesy Phil Erard

Sunday, November 21, 2010

Vanessa Greeley : a true source of inspiration

(201) Magazine, November 2010 I By Gloria Geannette Vanessa Greeley accepted the challenge to conquer her illness. Cancer survivor, she becomes prize-winning cake artist (click here to go to the article ...)

Vanessa, you are a true source of inspiration Love, Sophie

Photo : courtesy Tamir Bloom

Friday, November 12, 2010

Sophie Runway Model at the Chocolate Fashion Show NYC 2010

click on the print screen below to see the pictures
click on the picture to watch the video

Thursday, November 11, 2010

VIDEO : La Sirene - Chocolate Fashion Runway Show 2010

Team: Vanessa Greeley, Silvina Barboza, Carolina Lara, Michele Greeley, Sophie Denis
a
Click on the picture to play the video

Monday, October 25, 2010

Sport Mental ... (in French)

24 octobre 2010 I Le Monde.fr Blogs
Le point commun de S. Loeb, T. Riner, R. Nadal, L. Flessel, B.Vlasic et les autres

Parmi les points communs des athlètes de haut niveau ... un état hors du commun de conscience ... « dans cet état de fluidité, les choses les plus difficiles sont faciles, rendant ainsi les performances exceptionnelles, tout à fait naturelles » (Daniel Goleman, In L’intelligence émotionnelle) Link to blog

Sunday, October 24, 2010

Sophie joined the FPCD's International Advisory Board

FPCD welcomes Elite Athlete Sophie Denis
to the Foundation's International Advisory Board
(Sophie Denis at the top of the Paccha Summit in Peru with the FPCD Flag)

Sophie Denis is a key player, role model and source of inspiration to promote sport as powerful tool for peace, education and development, values in line with FPCD mandate. Having recently been named Goodwill Ambassador for Nepal Tourism 2011, the FPCD is honoured to welcome Ms. Denis to the Foundation's International Advisory Board.

FPCD and Sophie Denis are together developing a Youth Program to coincide with her role as Goodwill Ambassador in 2011 which will harmonize Ms. Denis' people's skills and sports' background with FPCD impressive development projects and both parties desire to advance diplomatic relationships with humanitarian actors for youth and deliver a strong message of hope.

FPCD's Youth Program 2011 will support youth initiatives in "post conflict" countries and aim to create 6 youth centers in 6 different communities along with Sophie's alpine challenge of climbing 6 peaks above 26,000ft in 6 months. This powerful project, will be a life challenging experience for our Youth, delivering a strong message of hope and beyond in line with Ms. Denis' motto : everything is possible.

This ambitious program is designed to reach a broad audience by launching an awareness campaign with media outlets, establishing keynote speaker roles in local and international events, and developing educational programs in the US schools to spread the word.

More : http://www.postconflictdev.org/
FPCD's International Advisory Board: http://www.postconflictdev.org/iab/default.aspx

Saturday, October 23, 2010

Press Release - Goodwill ambassadors in the US for NTY 2011

The Nepal Tourism Board (NTB) in collaboration with the Permanent Mission of Nepal to the UN has launched Nepal Tourism Year 2011 in New York on Oct. 14, 2010 amid a huge gathering of New York-based media and tour operators.


Nepal’s permanent representative to the UN Gyan Chandra Acharya highlighted Nepal’s tourism attractions and urged tour operators and the media to pledge their support to making the NTY 2011 campaign a success. He stressed that the economic prosperity of Nepal will lead to the sustained peace in the country and tourism is the best option in doing so by creating income and employment opportunities for the people.


Similarly, NTB chief executive officer Prachanda Man Shrestha acknowledged the great value of US visitors to Nepal’s travel industry and informed the tour operators and the media about the new product offerings during NTY 2011.


Two Everest summiteers - Joe Yannuzzi and Sophie Denis - were also declared ‘Honorary Goodwill Ambassadors’ during the event in the US for NTY 2011. The programme was attended by more than 80 US tour operators and members of the media, officials of the Nepal Permanent Mission and friends of Nepal in New York City.

Press release featured in the following media:


Oct 21, 2010 NTY-11 promo in NY to attract US visitors I The Himalayan Times

Oct 21, 2010 NTB launches NTY 2011 in US National I Ekantipur
 

Oct 21, 2010 Nepal Tourism Board - Sudhan Subedi I DC Nepal
 

Oct 22, 2010 NTY 2011 launched in New York I Nepal News
 
Oct 22, 2010 NTY launch in New York I Ghale
 

Oct 22, 2010 NEPAL TOURISM YEAR 2011 LAUNCHED IN NEW YORK I NAM News Network


Judo session

Back on the tatami mats for a short Judo session

in white Sophie Denis - in blue Mateo from the Italian National Team
a

It has been a long time, but I still have it ... kinda

Saturday, October 16, 2010

Sophie Denis Goodwill Ambassador

Oct. 14th 2010 Everest Summiteer Ms. Sophie Denis appointed as Goodwill Ambassador for the Nepal Tourism Year 2011

more coming soon ...

Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Sophie Denis, une Française au sommet

FRANCE-AMERIQUE
Selin Yasar I 15 juillet 2010

Quatrième femme à gravir l’Everest en 2008, l’alpiniste française Sophie Denis vient d’ouvrir en juin trois nouvelles routes au Pérou. Malgré ses nombreux records, la jeune femme garde l’enthousiasme de ses débuts. Tout juste rentrée à New York où elle vit depuis 7 ans, elle nous fait part de ses expériences
http://www.france-amerique.com/articles/2010/07/15/sophie_denis_une_francaise_au_sommet.html

Monday, October 4, 2010

Le sourire de Sophie Denis

FRANCE AMERIQUE
Par Alexandre Dubois I 08 juillet 2008

A 29 ans, Sophie Denis est la plus jeune Européenne et seulement la quatrième Française à monter la face Sud de l'Everest. Et l'énergie dépensée durant l'expédition n'a rien enlevé au sourire de la jeune femme.

http://www.france-amerique.com/articles/2008/07/08/le-sourire-de-sophie-denis.html


Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Huantsan Expedition's Report

2 New routes opened on Huantsan Mountain (Peru - Cordillera Blanca)
View from Huantsan South Summit - Cordillera Blanca Range - by Sophie Denis
o International climbing team, Sophie Denis, Beto Pinto Toledo and Rolando Morales, opened two new routes in Cordillera Blanca
o New route in Huantsan West Summit : “Les Trois Mousquetaires
Sophie is the first woman to summit Huantsan West.
o New route in Huantsan North Summit : “Illusion
Sophie is the first woman to summit Huantsan North.

 

HUANTSAN EXPEDITION'S JOURNAL
Sophie Denis I Aug. 5th 2010

 
 July 18th - Huaraz to Base Camp

 
We left Huaraz early afternoon to the Rajucolta Valley (4,200m). Cut in a storm, we decided to set up our Base Camp at the same place where the car dropped us off.

 July 19th - Base Camp to Advanced Base Camp

 
The ground was soaking wet. Being in no hurry, we decided to wait that the snow melt down and the ground dried up enough for a better set up of our next camp.
After a short walk towards the Moraine of Huantsan North, we found a cozy* camping spot. We set up there our Advanced Base Camp ~4,600m.
* cozy = flat place, not too exposed to wind and with easy access to water.
 
 July 20th - Advanced Base Camp to Camp1

We packed up and started off at 9:00 am. We walked on the Moraine for ~2h.

It was a short and pretty straightforward approach to the Glacier, at the exception that we had to be vigilant to potential ice falls. We saw an impressive one, crashing on our way, leaving behind giant pieces of blue ice.

The good conditions of the glacier at the beginning allowed us to walk pretty fast. Then, it turned ugly. The snow became deep and very soft, which slowed us down by a lot.

Crevasses got more frequent, got wider, higher, and much more difficult to cross. Toward the end of day, we had to jump over few deep crevasse and it was not much fun.

Early evening, as we were still walking on the glacier, we could see a snow storm coming. So we decided to stop
as soon as we found a camping spot.

We found a cozy* camping spot next to a giant crevasse, which would act as a fence in case of avalanche.

We set up our Camp 1 at ~5,100m.
We did not go as far as we expected but it was close enough.

* cozy = flat place, not too much exposed to the wind, protected to avalanche / rock fall.  

 
 

 July 21st- Camp1 to Camp2
We woke up at 4:00am. We started boiling water to make some tea at 5:00am. We started walking at 6:00am, leaving behind us our tent to reduce our bag pack weight.
In this kind of expedition weight matter, so you left at each camp some equipments and some food behind you, that you will use on your way down later. 
Our approach to the bottom of the face was a mess. With a hip high snow, breaking the trail on the glacier was challenging, and the path between crevasses was more and more difficult to find, loosing too much time and spending too much energy, we decided change our initial climbing plan to climb the South Face of the West Ridge of Huantsan.

The wall start with passing a Bergschrund.  Then, we climbed a 60m couloir with an angle between 50-60º with deep snow.

          The ascent of the wall was a delicate climb due to the abundance of loose snow and loose rocks. That section took us lots of time. Moreover, we had to do lots of clean up to find something safe to put on an good anchor.
Angle got steeper as well: 70º, 80º, 90º.

At the end of the last pitch, we had to dig a small tunnel/path in the mushroom hanging to the hedge of  
the face. This last pitch took us more than 1h.
We reached the summit at 7pm. It was dark. We were tired. When we intended to dig a snow cave, the snow happened to be blue ice hard. We gave up the idea of sleeping in a cozy, roomy ice cave to sleep in open bivouac.

We were not excepting doing an open bivouac 
AND we did not bring with us a bivouac bag

1/ We digged a 2 persons narrow hole, 1 feet deep, 
2/ We built up a small snow wall to protect us from the wind,
3/ We spread our rope down under our mattresses to add a little bite of insulation,
4/ Empty our bag packs and put our legs inside to keep our feet as warm as possible, as we did not have a bivouac bag,
5/ Put our gaiters along the bivouac walls to limited as much as possible the contacts with the snow

… after more than 1h, we were finally ready to sleep, Happy!
  
 July 22st- Rest day at Camp2 until 8PM


After our tough climb of yesterday, we decided to have a half day rest. It was a good opportunity to dry up our clothes, take pictures and get some energy to the North Summit push.
We opened a new route in Huantsan West Summit that we named: “Les Trois Mousquetaires”. That climbed was technical and very mental. Every single pitch (60m long) was taking us more than an hour. We had to be patient, cheerful, and keep our focus. That climb showed us that we were a team with strong bonds, having faith and confidence in each other. It was a good and rich experience.
Sophie resting at the South Summit
 
 July 22st- Camp2 to the North Summit to Camp2  
 
We started our climb to the North Summit at 8:00pm.

- The plus to start early evening was avoiding getting too cold before starting our climb and wasting even more energy to fight against the cold once in our bivouac.
- The minus to start our climb early evening was that the snow which melts during the day would not have enough time to freeze.The snow is much easier to climb when it’s hard and crispy.

The 1st pitch started off by few tough crevasses to pass.

The next 3 pitches were fairly easy with good snow and good walking slope angle with a ~50 º slope angle.
Snow for those 120m to climb was made of tiny “petinentes” that we were using as steps.

The next pitches got more challenging due the loose rocks and high risks of rock falls.
We lost quite sometimes in the traverse section, mainly when crossing the rock sections. Rocks were so breakable that it made those sections very sensitive to climb.

A big mushroom was hanging at the hedge the ridge. We tried to pass it on the left side, but it was too dangerous.
Thus, we turned back*, and went down to bypass the big snow mushroom.
* When the way you choose happened to be closed. It is not a heartbreaker to turn back and try another way, because you are already psychologically prepared. It is part of the game of opening a new route, you might try some ways that might or might not work.

Finally, we found a nice canalet at Pitch 10th made of hard ice with a 70-80º angle. That was very refreshing to be able to climb fast again. I love climbing those walls.

We summit Huantsan North after climbing for 12 hours.


Our initial plan was to climb as well Huantsan South Summit. But a giant crevasse (6m wide by 25m high) was in our way. We tried to find way to cross it (go into the crevasse, find a snow bridge somewhere, see if the giant crevasse will close at one point), but it was impossible. Resigned, we decided to go down to Camp 2. We went down via the same route.

Few times when we recovered the ropes, they got stuck between rocks which really damage one of them and required us to climb up again to unstuck the rope.
That was exhausting.
We had done our last rappel at 3pm.


We climbed for 20h.
Exhausted, we decided to sleep in our Bivouac.

 
  July 23st- Camp2 to Huaraz

The night in the Bivouac was very cold. The strong winds were blowing lots of snow on us all night. We woke cold, covered by snow, and few of our things were missing, included my helmet. “Les Trois Mousquetaire” route is a very exposed route to rocks falls and ice falls. So, it was too dangerous to go down without helmet. To prevent any injury, I used our cooking pot as helmet to go down the face.



We walked down the glacier. We found the way back with no major difficulty.

We had a lunch on the Moraine. We were very thirty. We climbed almost all day without drinking because we did not have enough gas to melt down some snow to get some water. Not drinking coupled with the dehydration due to the effort and the altitude intensified our eager/need to drink ASAP. We stopped at the first glacier lake we saw on the Moraine to get some water.
It felt sooo good.
Once at the base camp, no car was waiting for us. Thus, we had to walk ~20 kilometers until a village near to Huaraz where a car picked us up and drove us to Huaraz.

At first, I was feeling really good, and enjoyed the walk.
But, then it got dark. The night was cold and the trail slope got steeper as we had to walk on the ridge of the hills to try to get some cell phone receptions to call a car to pick us up. And it became a nightmare. Dogs feeling strangers in their land, got very aggressive with us, barking at us, following us…. My heart was beating really hard. I was really sacred. It was only Beto and I, Mono stayed at the Base Camp with all our climbing gear. I really did not like that last hours of our trip.