Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Photo - Summit Attemp #3

July 12th to Juy 15th
Lakpa and Sophie made their third Broad Peak Summit attempt

Day #1 - They climbed from Base Camp to Camp 2. We were expecting very deep due to the heavy recent snowing. But not at all, the snow was crispy, and ankle high. Just perfect to climb.
We joined for the summit push a german team and a spnish/argentinian team. The fact that we not only 2 in the mountain make a big difference from a breaking trail stand point.

Day #2 - All the teams went to Camp 3. Great team work today - Spanish/argentinian broke the trail at the morning, followed by the Germans, then by sophie and Lakpa. they arrived at Camp 3 early afternoon, leaving them few hours rest before push.

Day #2/3 - All the teams left at 9:30pm. Breaking the trail was very difficult. The snow was on some sections blue ice to very deep snow. We fixed about 200m ropes. After spending all night climbing, at 8:30am Sophie suddenly felt her feet very cold. Expecting that will happen, Sophie and Lakpa carry with them a MSR reactor to boil water or warm them up. At 7900m, Sophie took off her boots, sock,, bear feet she warmed up her feet with the stove. Dry her boots, put on new socks, and go down right away. She SAVED her feet from frostbite. She ended up with a tiny frostbite at the very top of her big toe.

Sophie always put safety first. She carried about 1kg more (Gas, stove, pot) when every grams count. But she noticed the day before summit that the sun will hit the face only late in the morning meaning that she knew that she will spend more than 12h in the dark, and in the cold
All the teams turn back shortly after Sophie and Lakpa.
Sophie and Lakpa went down to Base Camp the same day.

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