Sunday, April 10, 2011

Cho Oyu and Lhotse Climbing Strategy

CHO OYU
Cho Oyu is the 6th highest peak in the world (8201 meters) and is part of the Greater Himalaya, where the central Asia plateau meets the Indian subcontinent.
The Tibetan folktale of Cho Oyu (meaning Turquoise God) is that he fell in love with the Goddess Chomolungma (Everest), who later married her closer neighbor to the southeast, Makalu. Cho Oyu never married and he now faces the opposite way of Chomolungma.

Short note about climbing route:
Camp 1 is at altitude of 6400m. To reach at Camp 1 we have to walk for about 4-6 hours from advance base camp via an initial walk up the Gyabrag Glacier, up steep screc to a broad snow shoulder.
Camp 2 is at altitude of 7150 m.  We have to follow the snow ridge out of Camp 1 to a steep 50 meter ice wall, which provides most challenging climbing on this route.
Camp 3 is located at altitude of 7500m. After 4/5 hours walk from Camp 2 we can reach camp 3. At this altitude there is a tremendous sense of effort to gain further height. The final summit push will be made from this camp and takes about 6-9 hours





ITINERARY
Day #1 - April 11th - START drive to Nylam (CHINA) ~3000m/12,303ft
Day #2 - April 12th - Acclimatization Hike (up to 4000m)
Day #3 - April 13th - Drive Tingri (4390m/14,420ft)
Day #4 - April 14th - Acclimatization Hike (up to 5000m)
Day #5 - April 15th - Drive to Cho Oyu Chinese Base Camp (CBC)
Day #6 - April 16th - Trek to Intermediate Base Camp (IBC)
Day #7 - April 17th - Trek to Advanced Base Camp (ABC) : 5800m/19,024ft
Day #8 - April 18th - Acclimatization Day at ABC
Day #9 - April 19th - Rest day at ABC
Day #10 - April 20th - Climb to Camp I (6500m) spend a night at Camp I
Day #11 - April 21th - Go down to ABC
Day #12 - April 22th - Rest day at ABC
Day #13 - April 23th - Rest day at ABC
Day #14 - April 24th - Climb to Camp I (6500m) spend a night at Camp I
Day #15 - April 25th - Rest day at Camp I and spend a night at Camp I
Day #16 - April 26th - Climb to Camp II (7100m/23,288 feet) spend a night at Camp II
Day #17 - April 27th - maybe another night at Camp II or go down to ABC
Day #18 - April 28th - Rest day at ABC
Day #19 - April 29th - Rest day at ABC
Day #20 - April 30th - Rest day at ABC
Day #21 - May 1st - Climb to Camp I (6500m) spend a night at Camp I
Day #22 - May 2nd - Rest day at Camp I and spend a night at Camp I
Day #23 - May 3rd - Climb to Camp II (7100m/23,288 feet) spend a night at Camp II
Day #24 - May 4th - Climb to Camp III (7400m/24,272 feet)
Day #25 - May 5th - Summit Day if window of good weather (otherwise I will wait at Camp II until good weather) : On summit day we leave at 2 a.m. and I should summit between 9-11 a.m.
Day #26 - May 6th - Spare Summit Day
Day #27 - May 7th - Spare Summit Day
Day #28 - May 8th - Spare Summit Day
Day #29 - May 9th - Spare Summit Day
Day #30 - May 10th - Spare Summit Day
Day #31 - May 11th - Spare Summit Day
Day #32 - May 12th - Spare Summit Day
Day #33 - May 13th - Go back to  Chinese Base Camp
Day #34 - May 14th - Drive back to Kathmandu
LHOTSE CLIMB
Day #35 - May 15th - Fly to Luckla, trek up to Namche, sleep at Namche
Day #36 - May 16th - Trek From Namche to Dingboche, sleep at Dinboche
Day #37 - May 17th - Trek From Dingboche to Everest Base Camp
Day #38 - May 18th - Rest day at Everest Base Camp
Day #39 - May 19th - Climb to Camp II
Day #40 - May 20th - Rest day
Day #41 - May 21th - Climb to Camp III
Day #42 - May 22th - Climb to Camp IV
Day #43 - May 23th - Summit day back at Camp III
Day #44 - May 24th - Climb down to Everest Base Camp
Day #45 - May 25th - Rest day
Day #46 - May 26th - Go down to Pheriche
Day #47 - May 27th - Go down to Namche
Day #48 - May 28th - Rest day
Day #49 - May 29th - Go down to Luckla
Day #50 - May 30th - Go back to Kathmandu
Day #51 - May 31th - Enjoy Rest in Kathmandu

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