Follow the climb ...

Sophie Denis - Climber and Motivationalist - Features

2012-02-01T13:31:00.000-05:00

Below is an extract of the article:

"Sophie Denis - Climber and Motivationalist"

Article featured in Women Sport Report

Click on image to read the full article

Website Front Page

Follow Sophie on TWITTER

2012-01-30T11:43:00.000-05:00

https://twitter.com/#!/followtheclimb

77 Countries are now following this blog !!

2012-01-25T10:41:00.000-05:00

77 Countries are now following this blog !!

Welcome to the visitors from the following
new countries that have visited my blog:

China - Saudi Arabia - Lebanon - Trinidad and Tobago - Azerbaijan - Tunisia - Armenia - Kuwait - Estonia

- Click on each country name to learn more about those countries -

Catskill Ice Festival 2012

2012-01-21T11:20:00.000-05:00

From Chrix - NEice.com

14th Annual Catskill Ice Festival, January 20, 21, 22, 23, 2012.

This year again will have multiple clinics on all the skills and techniques you need to get out on ice - from basic skills, to dry-tooling, to glacier travel techniques.

Saturday, January 21, 2012

Sophie Denis

Basic Ice Movement - New to ice climbing, never ice climbed before? We will introduce you to the techniques needed to ice climb. All equipment provided.

Steep Ice Techniques - Ice is always steeper than it looks. Learn some handy skills & techniques to help keep you calm and cool when are on that pillar and fearing the burn. All equipment provided.

Sunday, January 22, 2012

Sophie Denis - Big Blue (NEI 4+)

Intermediate Ice Movement - for those who have climbed some ice before. We will introduce you to the techniques needed to climb effortlessly and efficiently. All equipment provided.

Mixed Climbs & Dry Tooling - When the ice runs out, or starts a ways up there... Learn the many different ways to use your tools to climb rock with your tools and crampons. All equipment provided.

Sophie Denis - Chouinard's Gully (NEI 3, 400')

Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue - Planning a trip to a glaciated area? Brush up on your glacier travel skills. We'll cover methods for tying in on a glacier in different party sizes, french techniques for your crampons and ice axe skills, and hauling systems and crevasse rescue skills just in case someone happens to fall in. All equipment technical provided.

Monday, January 23, 2012

Sophie Denis - Hot Shot (NEI 4+)

Backcountry Day in the Ravines - climb one or more of the multi-pitch ravines in the Catskills. Bushwhack in, climb up, rappel down, bushwhack out. A full day of activity and adventure. All equipment provided.

Link: Ice Festival Details

Link: Sophie Ice Climbing in The Adirondack

Visitors from 67 different countries (in 1 week)

2012-01-19T21:11:00.001-05:00

Thank you for your support

and interest across the world

67 Countries have visited

this blog within a week
(from 1/12 to 1/19)

Countries that have visited this blog from will have their flag shown on this map

Click on the picture to zoom in

American Alpine Journal published 3 of Sophie's new lines

2012-01-15T09:14:00.000-05:00

American Alpine Journal published Sophie's new climbing routes on Suiricocha, Manon Dos, Vicunita peaks: Click HERE to read the full article on the AAJ online

The full Expedition Report: Click HERE to read it

PART 2 of Sophie's Portrait interview - EXPLORERSWEB

2012-01-13T14:07:00.002-05:00

PART 2 of my portrait interview

with Angela Benavides

from EXPLORERSWEB

makes the front page

PART 1 - Who is she ?

Interview Extract:

ExplorersWeb: You are new in Himalaya with a bold plan, aren't you afraid to ruffle some feathers?

Sophie: I know that my background is unusual, as my confidence and high spirit in undertaking new challenges. It goes from my climbing challenge to moving to US without knowing a word of English, to .... re-inventing yourself, and always thinking beyond "the norm" is my life philosophy. My motto : Everything is possible :)

My challenge, or even me (too happy on the hill) could irritate/hurt some climbers' egos. But I don't want to play that game. I just do things for me, because I love it, and it is a challenge between me and me.

Read more : http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=20572

Mobile version: http://explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php

Sophie Denis. Who is She? - ExplorersWeb Interview

2012-01-12T11:27:00.002-05:00

My portrait interview with Angela Benavides

from EXPLORERSWEB

makes the front page

Interview Part II click here

Interview Extract:

... Summiting Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Broad Peak and Manaslu only last year, her plans for 2012 include Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, GI, GII, K2 and Shisha Pangma. Who is she? ExplorersWeb checked in with French-born, US based Sophie Denis.

Explorersweb: We first heard of you after you had opened new routes in the Andes and made a detailed plan on how you would summit the 14x8000ers. How is it working out?

Sophie: So far so good : It is good to have projects but the...

Read more : http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=20299
Mobile version: http://explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php

American Alpine Journal - Huantsan West, Les Trois Mousquetaires; Huantsan North, Illusion

2012-01-11T09:09:00.003-05:00

Click HERE to read the full article on the American Alpine Journal

Click HERE to read the full Huantsan Expedition's Report

Ice Climbing in New England for the holiday

2012-01-08T21:14:00.000-05:00

NEW YEAR'S EVE in NEW ENGLAND

Ice Climbing

I went ice climbing in New England. We drove through 5 states : New York, Connecticut, Massachusetts, Vermont, New Hampshire, to North Conway.

We did lots walking in the woods to find some ice. Unfortunately with warm temperature, ice was at the beginning stage of forming, thin and wet. Such ice conditions make our climbing trip a trekking trip.

Beautifu views, I did enjoy the area and the nice walk along the endless train tracks through the forest.

Sophie Denis

Happy Holidays

2011-12-27T10:12:00.000-05:00

Warmest thoughts and

Best Wishes for a

Wonderful holiday season!

May all of your dreams come true

- Sophie

Extraits du livre "LE MONT ANALOGUE (1952)" de René Daumal

2011-12-19T10:02:00.000-05:00

Le Mont Analogue de René Daumal Click here to read it in English

Le poète se penche sur notre passion alpine et tente de répondre avec des mots

vertigineux à la question du pourquoi ? On l’écoute. On connait la réponse plate et

convenue de Georges Mallory : “…parce qu’elle existe, parce qu’elle est là !..”

~ • ~

Définitions: « L’alpinisme est l’art de parcourir les montagnes

en affrontant les plus grands dangers avec la plus grande prudence.

On appelle ici art l’accomplissement d’un savoir dans une action. »

~ • ~

On ne peut pas rester toujours sur les sommets.
Il faut redescendre…
A quoi bon, alors ?
Voici : le haut connaît le bas, le bas ne connaît pas le haut.

~ • ~

On monte,
on voit.
On redescend,
on ne voit plus ;
mais on a vu.

~ • ~

Il y a un art de se diriger dans les basses régions,

par le souvenir de ce qu’on a vu lorsqu’on était plus haut.
Quand on ne peut plus voir,
on peut du moins encore savoir.

~ • ~

Un compagnon beaucoup plus expérimenté que moi me dit :

« Quand les pieds ne veulent plus vous porter, on marche avec la tête. »

The Art of Climbing Mountains

2011-12-18T09:17:00.000-05:00

The Art of Climbing Mountains
René Daumal
Extraits du livre "LE MONT ANALOGUE (1952)" en français

You cannot always stay on the summits

You have to come down again . . .

So what’s the point?
Only this: what is above knows what is below,
what is below does not know what is above.

~ • ~

One climbs,
One sees.
One descends,
One sees no longer,
But one has seen.

~ • ~

There is an art of conducting oneself in the lower regions
by the memory of what one saw higher up.
When one can no longer see,
one can at least still know.”

~ • ~

A climber far more experienced than I told me,
“when your feet will no longer carry you,
you have to walk with your head.”

~ • ~

This excerpt is from René Daumal’s Mount Analogue: A Tale of Non-Euclidian and Symbolically Authentic Mountaineering Adventures, Woodstock, NY: Overlook Press, 2004, pp. 105–108, and is used here with their kind permission. Copyright © 1981 Editions Gallimard, Paris. English translation Copyright © 2004 by Carol Cosman. For more information contact The Overlook Press, One Overlook Drive, Woodstock, NY 12498.

Sophie Denis OFFICIAL Website

2011-12-14T01:02:00.000-05:00

www.sophiedenis.com

Baltoro Glacier by Sophie Denis

Article in the famous climbing website KAIRN - in French

2011-12-08T14:03:00.000-05:00

Dernières news des expés by Cedric Larcher I KAIRN
http://www.kairn.com/news__77304.dernieres-news-infos-informations-nouvelles-expes.html

*** Sophie Denis en route pour les 14x8000

La française installée aux Etats-Unis tentera de réaliser 6x8000m en 2012. Elle a déjà gravit 4x8000m en 2011, au cours de 5 expéditions. Le K2 lui avait finalement échappé à cause de mauvaises conditions climatiques.
Elle compte actuellement 5x8000m au palmarès
En cas de réussite elle deviendrait la première française a réaliser ce challenge (homme et femmes confondus)

News available as well on the following websites:

Article in Diari Newspaper - in Spanish

2011-12-05T14:30:00.000-05:00

Annapurna y Dhaulagiri, sus próximos objetivos
MONTAÑISMO I ES EL NOVENO ‘OCHOMIL’ QUE CONQUISTA EL ALPINISTA TARRACONENSE
DIARI Newspaper ; POR FRANCESC JOAN

Nov. 11th, 2011 : INTERVIEW print in DIARI DE TARRAGONA Newspaper - in Spanish

2011-11-28T11:30:00.000-05:00

SOPHIE DENIS n ALPINISTA : ‘En la cima del Everest decidí dejar la banca’
POR FRANCESC JOAN I DIARI DE

Ha cambiado el maletín de ejecutivo por el piolet; el traje chaqueta por la chaqueta de pluma; los rascacielos deNueva York por las cumbres de Himalaya; y los vaivenes de la bolsa de NuevaYork, donde trabajó desde 2004 a 2010 para Crédit Agricole, por los desniveles de las cimas nevadas. La ascensión al Everest en 2008 la cautivó, y desde entonces no tiene límites. Quiere ser la Edurne Pasabán francesa. Su lema: ‘Todo es posible’.

more : click here to READ the FULL PAGE ARTICLE

Happy Thanksgiving !

2011-11-25T15:31:00.000-05:00

There isn't anything as exciting as being at the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade in person.
Enjoying watching the giant balloons floating in the air in the streets of Manhattan beneath brilliant sunshine, with the festive mood

On Wednesday afternoon, we went to see the balloon being inflated:

credit : cfnews13.com

Thursday morning we went to see the Parade:

NY AAC Dinner

2011-11-13T08:49:00.000-05:00

I had a really good time at the American Alpine Club (AAC) Annual Dinner, New York Chapter.

Congratulation to Phil Erard for organizing such a great event.

My table was lots of fun. I had at my table of the AAC Past and Present Presidents, Mark Richey and Steve Swenson, with their respective beautiful wives Theressa and Anne. They are very interesting, low key, and funny people.

Chocolate Fashion Show New York 2011

2011-11-10T14:59:00.001-05:00

Sophie Denis Runway Model at the Chocolate Fashion Show for Chef Vanessa Greeley

Chocolate Fashion Show:
The 14th annual NY Chocolate Show is now in full swing. To get the feasting started, on Wednesday night 14 different models strutted their stuff -- but instead of wearing haute couture, they wore haute chocolate. A lot of it, in fact. This year's theme, "Celebrate Broadway" paid homage to Broadway plays of the past and present, from Les Miserables to Wicked.

more : http://www.chocolateshow.com/salon_event.aspx?event_id=27

Sophie Denis and Michele Greeley are getting ready for the show

New York Chocolate Show kicks off on Broadway

The Cirque du Chocolat

Out fit inspired from the show Zarkana (Cirque du Soleil)

Photos: Models Strut In Edible Attire At The Chocolate Fashion Show 2011
From Sam Horine I Gothamist
http://gothamist.com/2011/11/10/photos_chocolate_fashion_show_2011.php#photo-5

English.news.cn

2011-11-10 21:21:26

Editor: Bi Mingxin

http://news.xinhuanet.com/english2010/photo/2011-11/10/c_131240034_3.htm

The 2011 Chocolate Fashion Show

ShowTaken: November 9, 2011
Credit: Natasha Ryan
http://newyork.metromix.com/events/standard_photo_gallery/the-2011-chocolate-fashion/2909434/content

Indian Summer in Central Park

2011-11-08T20:19:00.002-05:00

Back to New York City

I love running in Central Park.

Indian Summer in Central Park is so beautiful.

"Alpiniste Extraordinaire" ...

2011-11-06T19:36:00.000-05:00

I am honored to be refered to as "Alpiniste Extraordinaire", take a look below

Sophie, la petite princesse de l’Himalaya ... Article Le Parisien

2011-11-05T07:27:00.000-04:00

Sophie, la petite princesse de l’Himalaya

Le Parisien
Maxime Fieschi

Publié le 05.11.2011

Sophie Denis, une alpiniste originaire de Guyancourt, s’est lancée dans un formidable challenge : gravir 14 sommets de plus de 8000 m en trois ans
http://www.leparisien.fr/yvelines-78/sophie-la-petite-princesse-de-l-himalaya-05-11-2011-1703344.php

Bio Express :
http://www.leparisien.fr/yvelines-78/bio-express-05-11-2011-1703341.php

TV interview --- in french

2011-10-28T14:16:00.000-04:00

http://www.tvfil78.com/le78/article-le78-26-10-2011.html

Ascension of the Mont Toubkal

2011-10-27T00:26:00.000-04:00

I am flying today to Marrakech in Morroco to climb the Mont Toubkal highest peak in Morroco. I am coming back on November 2nd

more info (in french): Le Toubkal (4167 m)

Point culminant de l’Afrique du Nord, le Djebel Toubkal domine de ses 4167 m les vallées encaissées où se dissimulent les très beaux villages berbères de Imlil et Tachdirt : la vie y est restée la même depuis des siècles, à l’ombre des amandiers et noyers centenaires, ponctuée par les rires des enfants et les vives couleurs des tenues des femmes berbères. Au pas des mulets de notre caravane, quittant la chaleur de la plaine pour la fraîcheur de l’altitude, vous parcourerez les terres des Bergers, où le thé à la menthe goûté dans le jour déclinant retrouve toute sa saveur. Un très beau voyage, dans le temps et dans l’espace, au fil des plateaux arides et des oasis de verdures des villages, ponctué par l’ascension du Toubkal.

C'est le massif ancien du Haut Atlas de Marrakech aux roches primitives et aux reliefs élevés et drus.

Il culmine au mont Toubkal, à 4167 m

Welcome Paris

2011-10-26T07:49:00.000-04:00

Paris by night (from Sophie Denis)

Last day in Kathmandu

2011-10-24T07:45:00.000-04:00

It was fantastic journey

An experience for life

A life experience

Buddhist mandalas

2011-10-22T12:33:00.000-04:00

Mandalas are works of sacred art in Tantric (Tibetan) Buddhism. The word "mandala" comes from a Sanskrit word that generally means "circle," and mandalas are indeed primarily recognizable by their concentric circles and other geometric figures. Mandalas are far more than geometical figures, however. For Tantric Buddhists, they are rich with symbolism and sacred meaning. In fact, the etymology of the word "mandala" suggests not just a circle but a "container of essence."

Overview

Simply stated, a mandala is a sacred geometric figure that represents the universe. When completed, a mandala becomes a sacred area that serves as a receptable for deities and a collection point of universal forces. By mentally entering a mandala and proceeding to its center, a person is symbolically guided through the cosmos to the essence of reality. By constructing a mandala, a monk ritually participates in the Buddha's teachings.

In Tibetan Buddhism, contemplation of sacred images is central to religious ritual, and a mandala is one of the most important of these sacred images. A Tibetan mandala is usually made with careful placement of colored sand, and accordingly is known in Tibetan as dul-tson-kyil-khor, or "mandala of colored powders." In China, Japan and Tibet, mandalas can also be made in bronze or stone three-dimensional figures. In recent years, a variety of mandalas have been created using computer graphics, although these are usually created by non-Buddhists and are not considered sacred.

Constructing a Mandala

The process of constructing a mandala is a sacred ritual. It is a meditative, painstaking process that can take days or even weeks to complete.

Before a monk may participate in the construction of a mandala, he must undergo a lengthy period of artistic and philosophical study. In the Namgyal monastery, the personal monastery of Dalai Lama, this period lasts three years.

Traditionally, four monks work together on a single mandala. The mandala is divided into quadrants with one monk assigned to each. Midway through the process, each monk receives an assistant who helps fill in the colors while the primary monk continues to work on detailed outlines.
Mandalas are constructed from the center outward, beginning with a dot in the center. With the placement of the center dot, the mandala is consecrated to a partcular deity. This deity will usually be depicted in an image over the center dot, although some mandalas are purely geometric.

Lines are then drawn through the center dot to the four corners, creating triangular geometric patterns. These lines are then used to construct a square "palace" with four gates. The monks usually keep to their own quadrant at this point.

From the inner square, the monks move outward to a series of concentric circles. Here the monks work in tandem, moving all around the mandala. They wait until each section is entirely completed before moving outward together. This ensures that balance is always maintained.

Although some mandalas are painted and serve as an enduring object of contemplation, the traditional Tibetan sand mandala, when completed, is deliberately destroyed. The sand is poured into a nearby stream or river to distribute the positive energies it contains. This ritual reminds those who painstakingly constructed the mandala of the central Buddhist teaching of the impermanence of all things.

Mandala Symbolism

In Buddhism, mandalas are rich with symbolism that evokes various aspects of Buddhist teaching and tradition. This is part of what makes the creation of a mandala a sacred act, for as they work, the monks are imparting the Buddha's teachings.
Outside the square temple are several concentric circles. The outermost circle is usually decorated with stylized scrollwork resembling a ring of fire. This ring of fire symbolizes the process of transformation humans must undergo before being able to enter the sacred territory within. It both bars the unitiated and symbolizes the burning of ignorance.
The next circle inward is a ring of thunderbolt or diamond scepters, which stands for indestructability and illumination. This is followed by a circle of eight graveyards, representing the eight aspects of human consciousness that bind a person to the cycle of rebirth. Finally, the innermost ring is made of lotus leaves, signifying religious rebirth.

The square structure in the middle of a mandala is a palace for the resident deities and a temple containing the essence of the Buddha. The square temple's four elaborate gates symbolize a variety of ideas, including:

• The four boundless thoughts: loving-kindness, compassion, sympathy and equanimity

• The four directions: south, north, east and west

Within the square palace or temple are images of deities, which are usually the Five Dyani Buddhas (the Great Buddhas of Wisdom). The iconography of these deities is rich in symbolism in itself. Each of the Dyani Buddhas represents a direction (center, south, north, east and west), cosmic element (like form and consciousness), earthly element (ether, air, water, earth and fire), and a particular type of wisdom. Each Buddha is empowered to overcome a particular evil, such as ignorance, envy or hatred. The Five Dyani Buddhas are generally identical in appearance, but are each represented iconographically with a particular color, mudra (hand gesture), and animal. See the article on the Five Dyani Buddhas for more information.

In the center of the mandala is an image of the chief deity, who is placed over the center dot described above. Because it has no dimensions, the center dot represents the seed or center of the universe.

Types of Mandalas

Tibetan Mandalas come in a variety of forms, but most are variations on the basic themes outlined above. Broadly speaking, there are two basic types of mandalas:
• Garbha-dhatu (Sanskrit: “womb world”; Japanese: taizo-kai), in which the movement is from the one to the many
• Vajra-dhatu (Sanskrit: “diamond world”; Japanese kongo-kai), from the many into one

Back from white water kayaking

2011-10-20T01:38:00.000-04:00

White water kayak is quite an intense experience. You have no control over the water, experience and technic would help you, but as I have none, so the first days were really tough ! I drink lots of water, swim a lot. Not as relaxing as expected, I have to admit :-)

I kayak on the Trisli River

Video of me doing a T-Rescue : White Water Kayak - Sophie doing a T-Rescue
More about the Trisuli River:
The Trishuli is named after the trishula or trident of Shiva, a powerful god in the Hindu pantheon.There is a legend that says high in the Himalayas at Gosaikunda, Shiva drove his trident into the ground to create three springs – the source of the river and hence its name Trisuli

Trisuli river starts from Betrawati (625m) and flows to Narayanghat (170m) covering distance of 141 kms. The river is approchable from Kathmandu by vehicle in 2 to 4 hours' drive and the river days would be from 4 to 7. The difficulty in class is 3+ to 4

http://www.adventureaves.com/

Après l'effort le réconfort ...

2011-10-14T20:20:00.000-04:00

I am going White Water Kayaking for 5 days.
Should be fun ....

Back to Kathmandu - Manaslu sum up in very short

2011-10-12T02:48:00.000-04:00

I've just came back to Kathmandu today. Trek out via Larke Path was really good

Sophie summit Manaslu on Oct 4th 2011

WITHOUT Oxygen

Quick Manaslu climb sum up:

Approach: Sept 16th, after 8 days trek, I've finally made it to Base Camp. I have trek in with the donkey drivers. We had lots of work to make the way safe for the donkeys : building bridge, path, help the donkeys crossing rivers .... it was quite of an experience
Arrive at Base Camp on Sept. 24th.
First Carry: On Sept. 25th, I did a first carry to Camp 1. I carried about 15kg, and I was feeling very good. At that time, I knew that I could keep going and go up to 7000m with an heavy load. I did not sleep at Camp1 (5700m). I just went up to Camp 1 and drop a first load of gear, and went down to Base Camp (4700m)
Waiting for window: Sept. 26th and Sept 27th, it snowed a lot. Everyone went down the mountain as there was lots of avalanches between Camp 1 and Camp 2 and above in some sections.

Summit Push:
Sept 28th : Climb and sleep at Camp 1 (5700m) - load 15 kg
Sept 29th : Climb and sleep at Camp 2 (6400m) - load 30kg
Sept 30th : Climb and sleep at Camp 3 (6800m) - left behind me at Camp 2 half of the load - carry only 15kg up to Camp 3
Oct 1st : Go down to Camp 2 to pick up the remaining of my gear that I left the day before, then climb back up to Camp 3. Sleep at Camp 3
Oct 2nd : Sleep at Camp3 - wait for good weather
Oct 3rd : Climb and sleep at Camp 4 (7450m)
Oct 4th : Summit without O2 (As usual, I did carry a O2 bottle with me up to 8000m just in case, but I was feeling really good, and I did not use it. I start late, at 7am. So I did not carry my stove and pot :-). After summit, I went down to Camp 4 and sleep at Camp 4
Oct 5th : Went down to Base Camp
Oct 6th : Packing my bags at Base Camp
Oct 7th : Went down to Samogon, and start my trek out via Lake Pass

Sophie on the trek out : Manaslu Circuit Larke Pass

Pictures, Videos, .... more coming later ....

sommet du MANASLU le mardi 4 octobre 2011

2011-10-07T05:07:00.001-04:00

Paris, jeudi 6 octobre 2011
Sophie vient de me téléphoner vers 17h00 pendant quelques secondes, avec un téléphone qu'elle a emprunté, pour me dire qu'elle avait atteint le sommet du MANASLU le mardi 4 octobre 2011 et qu'elle allait bien. Qu'elle était fière de son succès et que dès qu'elle serait dans un lieu où elle pourrait communiquer elle donnerait plus de précisions.
Elle voulait surtout rassurer tout le monde après un challenge si difficile.
Je dois dire que, pour la première fois, j'étais inquiet.
Yves Denis

Manaslu - Climbing Strategy

2011-09-26T05:27:00.000-04:00

MANASLU EXPEDITION - CLIMBING STRATEGY

I will climb Manaslu with no Guide, Porter, or Sherpa. I will be self-sufficient, meaning that I will need to carry up to the mountain all my belongs: Tent, Gas, Food, Personal Gear ...

I have estimate that my bag pack should weight ~28kg.

Instead of carrying 28kg in once, I will do carry. Or in other words, I will carry about 15kg of gear up to half way between each camp. Then I will depsosit the gear on the snow and attached it to a secure snow picket that I will place.

It is a totally different technic that my previous climb which will allow me to 1/ carry less in once, 2/ insure a good acclimatization as I will go high during the day and sleep low at night.

Altitude Chart

Manaslu - Gear List

2011-09-24T05:34:00.000-04:00

Manaslu Route Description

2011-09-22T04:43:00.000-04:00

MANASLU EXPEDITION - ROUTE DESCRIPTON

from www.enepalholidays.com

Base Camp to Camp 1

BC is located at 4,665 meters and while it is well situated on rock and protected from winds, the valley’s clouds condense at this altitude and often result in significant snowfall. The climbing begins immediately out of base camp as we step onto the Manaslu Glacier. The route will be heavily crevassed. I will use fix rope over the more dangerous sections. Camp I at 5,500 meters, which is located in a comfortable col at the head of the Manaslu glacier at the foot of the North Peak, a separate satellite mountain of Manaslu. The climb from base camp to camp one takes ~3hours.

Camp 1 to Camp 2

From Camp 1, the route continues up steep slopes to a massive and often highly active icefall, but weaving between seracs, I passe underneath the icefall to reach a steep slope that will be fixed with rope up to Camp II. Camp 2 is sheltered by a series of ice cliffs at 6,300 meters. Camp two is located at the top of the serac section of the climb on a somewhat flat area safe from danger, although this campsite can receive a lot of snow accumulation. This is the most technical section of the climb and takes ~5hours.

From www.connect.in.com

Camp 2 to Camp 3

From Camp 2, the route continues up the upper glacier, traveling through a series of snow shelves before ascending a steeper snow slope to reach a large col with magnificent views of the surrounding peaks. Camp 3 is placed on a flat saddle that sits just below the col, hence the reason this campsite receives strong winds frequently. The climb from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is the less strenuous day by being one of the shortest on the mountain and takes between 1.5-3 hours.

Camp 3 to Camp 4

From Camp 3 at 6,700 meters, the route continues up the remaining glacier weaving through seracs with some short steep sections of ice and snow. Then, the route goes directly up the steeper northeast slopes, and passing through some short ice bulges to reach an upper snow slope. There is an exposed traverse with remains of past expeditions in the shape of old abandoned and destroyed tents which will take me to Camp IV at 7,300 meters. The summit, which has not been in our view since Samagaon, is now deceivingly close, however, it is still a long way to go. The climb from camp three to camp four takes ~6 hours.

From http://www.connect.in.com/

Camp 4 to Summit

From Camp 4, I will climb up snow slopes which involve short, steep sections in potentially deep snow before arriving at the final pyramid slope. There is a comfortable false summit just below the true summit, which is a spot where many people stop. The true summit is reached with an exposed technical traverse for around 70 meters in linear distance. The climb from camp four to the summit takes ~7 hours with 2-4 hours for the descent to camp four.

The descent can be fast, but I will stay at Camp 4 to clean up the Camps.

Topo Map

From http://www.manymaps.com/

Sophie's Recovery Process

2011-09-17T12:22:00.000-04:00

Broad Peak Summit Pictures

2011-09-13T02:21:00.000-04:00

Sophie climbed Broad Peak, 12th highest peak in the world located in Pakistan

After summiting Lhotse, 4th highest peak in the world located in Nepal, and Cho Oyu, 6th highest peak in the world located in Tibet, Sophie found the mental and physical strength to climb and summit Broad Peak on July 25th 2011, at her 4th Broad Peak' Summit attempt in one month.

Sophie hopes that her outstanding effort will inspire people to do,

and to send an empowering message that Everything Is Possible!

Don't give up, believe in yourself!

Annapurna Trek

2011-09-11T23:48:00.000-04:00

View from Annapurna Base Camp

Annapurna Base Camp Trek

Early September is the end of the monsoon season. The cons are that I did not see any views, as it was raining and cloudy all day every day. It was not much fun to trek with this weather and be soaking wet all the time. The plus are the trekkers. In this off season, there is no big group, only individual trekking. I met every single day very interesting people, with great stories and good energy.

Here below, a group of Chinese trekkers who are celebrating the Mid-Autumn Festival at Annapurna Base Camp. I was one of those heartwarming moments when you feel being part of something different. They were singing traditional songs, and invite me to join them to eat the Mooncake that they brought from China.

Learn more about the Mooncake : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mooncake

Trek Altitude chart

I got very sick, and take my recovery very seriously. I did the Annapurna Base Camp Trek with specific goals in mind:
- Get pre-acclimatized for my coming climb. Manaslu base Camp is at 4800m
- Check myself physically : How I do, How I feel

I spent 3 nights at Base Camp and Trek up to ~4800m several times. I felt good. I noticed that I lost a lot of acclimatization, as I woke up at the morning with my visage swollen. It is a natural inflammation of your mucus due to altitude. Otherwise, I did not notice any other symptoms: headache, nausea, difficulty to breathe …

Trek Pictures

Life style: As I walked through more remote areas, I can enjoy the Gurung region traditions and lifestyle

Jungle: Until Deurli, I walked mainly in the Jungle. It is full of animals. We can hear the birds singing loud, monkeys jumping trees to trees, a broad range of butterfly … , the down side are the letches. But with salt in your socks, and tiger balm on your shoes, they do not bite

Views

Annapurna Trek Itinerary

2011-09-07T10:36:00.001-04:00

Annapurna Trek Itinerary

DAY #1

Drive from Pokhara to Phedi
Phedi to Pothana: The trail climbs through Dhampus from where you will start to get a splendid view of the Annapurma range, and then gradually ascends a forested trail paved with stones. There is a short steep climb to Pothana at 1,890m
Pothana - Landruk: The trail climbs through forest to a clearing on top of the hill at 2010m, where there are views of Annapurna South and Hiunchuli. From there make a steep decent, through forests alive with birds, ferns and orchids into a huge side canyon of the Modi Khola. From here it's an easy walk, past fields, a school before the trail drops a bit to the flagstone streets of Landruk, a Gurung village at 1,565m.

DAY #2

Landruk to New Bridge: The narrow trail to the sanctuary turns north up the Modi Khola valley passing alongside rice terraces then through forests and a short walk up the river bed leads to New Bridge (1,340m).
New Bridge to Chommrong: A stiff climb leads to Jhinudanda (1,780m) and from the trial continues to climb steep uphill along a treeless ridge to Taulung at 2180m. A short distance from Taulung, the trail rounds a bend and enters the upper part of Chhommrong at 2,170m.
Chommrong - Bamboo: Leaving Chommrong, the trail descends on a stone staircase and crosses the Chommrong Khola. Climbing high above the Modi Khoa on it's west bank, the trail passes through the tiny settlement of Tilche in forests of bamboo, rhododendron and oak. The trail continues in rhododendron forests, climbing to Khuldigar at 2,540m. It is then a short distance on a muddy trail to Bamboo at 2,335m.
Bamboo to Dovan: The trail climbs steeply through stands of bamboo, then through rhododendron forest up the side of the canyon, occasionally dropping slightly to cross tributary streams. Trail cleared up shotly before Dovan at 2,505m

DAY #3

Dovan to Deurali: Trail ascending continuously to Hinko. The trail crosses a ravine and a major avalanche track just beyond Hinku, then climbs through large boulders. About half an hour beyond Hinku is Deurali at 3,200m.

DAY #4

Deurali - Machhapuchhre Base Camp

Above Deurali, the valley widens and becomes less steep and you can see the gates to the sanctuary. As the trail continues into the sanctuary, it crosses two wide avalanche tracks on a narrow trail that huddles up against the cliffs. The trail then descends to meet the Modi Khola and follows the river to Bagar at 3300meters. From there cross a moraine and a stream and finally reaches Machhapuchre Base Camp at 3,700m.

Machhapuchre Base Camp (MBC) up to Singu Chuli Base Camp (cave camp) - sleep at MAC: From Machhapuchre base camp cross the rubble - strewn snout of the South Annapurna Glacier and follow the Modi Khola on its true right bank until it is joined by a tributary stream from the West Annapurna Glacier. Follow this north - west over moraines and grassy meadows to a rock overhang before the snout of the West Annapurna Glacier

DAY #5

Machhapucharee Base Camp to Annapurna Base Camp: It's an about two hour climb to Annapurna base camp (ABC) 4,130m. Once at ABC, I will do an acclimatization hike up to 4800m, to back down and sleep at ABC

DAY #6

Annapurna Base Camp up to Tharpu Chuli Camp: Acclimatization hike to Tharpu Chuli Camp at 5,230m. Sleep at Annapurna Base Camp to consolidate a good acclimatization. (after being sick , I want to take it easy and rebuild my acclimatization if needed)

DAY #7

Annapurna Base Camp to Chomrong

DAY #8

Chomrong to Naya Pul: On the way down will d a detour to Poon, stunning view point.

DAY #9

Naya Pul drive to Pokhara

Pokhara Buddhist Monastery, a masterpiece

2011-09-04T01:23:00.004-04:00

I visit today a Buddhist Monastery. It is a masterpiece. The paintings are splendid, with an impressive level of details. The paintings are telling the buddha story. You walk in the monastery reading the wall painting as you would read a book. It is a must !

More of Sophie's Actities & Pictures in Pokhara

Sarangkot View Point

2011-09-03T11:39:00.000-04:00

Annapurna Range View from Sarangkot

It is the highest viewpoint easily accesable from Pokhara. Two hours walk up the staircase, or get most of the way up by local bus or Taxi.

Sarangkot has great views in all four directions, Pokhara below, The Annapurna Range including its highest peaks, Rolling Hills off to the sunset and a rural lanscape out along the ridge road.

more picture of Pokhara

http://followtheclimb.blogspot.com/search/label/Pokhara

Rowboat on the Phewa Tal lake

2011-09-02T11:30:00.002-04:00

Phewa Tal Lake in Pokhara ... it is breathtaking

Spreading majestically westwards from Pokhara, Phewa Tal is the second-largest lake in Nepal. On calm days, the mountains of the Annapurna Range are perfectly reflected in the mirrored surface of the tal. Away from the shore, the water is clean and deep and the dense forest along the south side of the lake provides shelter for brilliant white egrets.

Rowboating for the pleasure of everyone ;)

The readers ...

Homemade Swimming Floats or "brassards de natation"

more Pokhara pictures (link)

http://followtheclimb.blogspot.com/search/label/Pokhara

World Peace Pagoda - Pokhara, Nepal

2011-09-01T11:52:00.002-04:00

World Peace Pagoda

Views

Learn more

World Peace Pagoda by Wikipedia

A Peace Pagoda is a Buddhist stupa designed to provide a focus for people of all races and creeds, and to help unite them in their search for world peace. Most (though not all) have been built under the guidance of Nichidatsu Fujii (1885–1985), a Buddhist monk from Japan and founder of the Nipponzan-Myōhōji Buddhist Order. Fujii was greatly inspired by his meeting with Mahatma Gandhi in 1931 and decided to devote his life to promoting non-violence. In 1947, he began constructing Peace Pagodas as shrines to World peace.

The first Peace Pagodas were built as a symbol of peace in the Japanese cities of Hiroshima and Nagasaki where the atomic bombs took the lives of over 150,000 people, almost all of whom were civilian, at the end of World War II. By 2000, eighty Peace Pagodas had been built around the world in Europe, Asia, and the United States.

The Peace Pagoda was awarded the Courage of Conscience award June 5, 1998 in Sherborn, MA

World Peace Pagoda - Pokhara, Nepal
Balanced on a narrow ridge high above Phewa Tal, the brilliant-white World Peace Pagoda in Pokhara is a massive Buddhist stupa which was constructed by Buddhist monks from the Japanese Nipponzan Myōhōji organisation. Besides being an impressive sight in itself, the shrine is a vantage point which offers spectacular views of the Annapurna range and Pokhara city.

more pictures of Pokhara (link) :

http://followtheclimb.blogspot.com/search/label/Pokhara

Devi's Falls in Pokhara

2011-09-01T09:11:00.002-04:00

Devi's Falls in Pokhara

Devi's Falls marks the point where the Pardi Khola stream vanishes underground. When the stream is at full bore, the sound of the water plunging over the falls is deafening.

According to locals, the name is a corruption of David's Falls, a reference to a Swiss visitor who tumbled into the sinkhole and drowned

more pictures of Pokhara (link) : http://followtheclimb.blogspot.com/search/label/Pokhara

Nepalese Hindu Women Festival

2011-08-31T04:21:00.000-04:00

Teej in Nepal

by Wikipedia

link : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teej

The first day of Teej is called Dar Khane Din. On this day the women, both married and unmarried, mainly of Khas ethnicity, assemble at one place, in their finest attire and start dancing and singing devotional songs. Amidst all this, the grand feast takes place. The jollity often goes on till midnight, after which the 24-hour fast starts.

The second day is the fasting day. Some women live without a morsel of food and drops of water while others take liquid and fruit. On this day, they gaily dress and visit a nearbyShiva temple singing and dancing on the way. The Pashupatinath Temple gets the highest number of devotees. At the Shiva temple, women circumambulate the Shiva Linga, the symbol of the lord, offering flowers, sweets and coins. The main puja (religious ceremony) takes place with offerings of flowers, fruits, etc., made to Shiva and Parbati, beseeching them to grant their blessing upon the husband and family. The important part of the puja is the oil lamp which should be alight throughout the night.

The third day of the festival is Rishi Panchami. After the completion of the previous day's puja, women pay homage to various deities and bathe with red mud found on the roots of the sacred datiwan bush, along with its leaves. This act of purification is the final ritual of Teej, after which women are considered absolved from all their sins. The recent years have witnessed an alteration in the rituals, especially concerning the severity, but its essence remains the same.

Teej is celebrated just before the first day of Ganesh Chaturthi. Women do 24-hour nirjala fasting (without water or fruit) for the wellness of their spouse and their married life and unmarried would be praying to get a nice husband.

Conference at NUST - Pakistan

2011-08-30T13:22:00.001-04:00

Thank you to NUST Adventure Club, The Adventure Club, and PFAN for inviting me as keynote speaker and for their heartwarming welcome.

I had great pleasure talking to such interested, enthousiatic and involved audience.

* NUST: National University of Sciences and Technology

* PFAN : Pak-France Alumni Network

Official website:

Broad Peak Daily Journal Videos - Online

2011-08-29T00:43:00.002-04:00

Click on the video that you want to view

Broad Peak Pictures (link)

more coming soon ...

Excellent News & Bad News

2011-08-22T07:17:00.000-04:00

Excellent News : The 2 days chock treatment worked. I'm healthy again. I am very happy!!!! (I will not eat yogurt anymore that I buy from a deli, I promise .... what a stupid mistake ....)

My doctor gave me some food/vitamins supplement to speed up my recovery. I need too rest and eat up.

Bad News : I should I have left Kathmandu September 1st to Tibet to climb Shishapagma, which is leaving me less than 10 days to build up strength and to gain weight. The doctor told me that it is too early to be back in mountain and asked me to cancel my Shisha climb.

It is with regret that I will cancel my Shishapagma expedition. It is the wise decision and I am comfortable with it.

Body Fat Drama #2

2011-08-19T03:07:00.001-04:00

I am suffering from a food positioning for the last few days. I went to the hospital and doctors are running some tests. They gave me a 2 days very porwerful medecine. I will go back to the hospital on Monday to check on my status and thay will decide if I should get hospitalized to treat me and help me to recover. My body is unfortunately very weak now and crushed down every day little bite more my body fat ratio. It is a terrible timing for being sick as it might jeopardize my Shisha climb.

I have always put safety first. So if my doctor ask me to cancel my expedition, I will do it.

PS: Please do not worry. I am in excellent hands. I am followed by one of the best hospital in Nepal

Me yesterday - my current weight : 124lbs

The issue is I am in a down trend, whereas I should be gaining weight.

http://followtheclimb.blogspot.com/2011/05/body-fat-drama.html

All you wanted to know about the mountains > 8000m

2011-08-18T12:36:00.000-04:00

Excellent website

http://www.8000ers.com/cms/en/8000ers-mainmenu-205.html

Alpine Challenge Itinerary - 9 Months Away Day by Day

2011-08-17T02:08:00.001-04:00

Click on the link/title to access to the photos of the day

Everest Base Camp Trek

Rest

04/10/11 - Kathmandhu Rest Day

Cho Oyu Climb

Rest

05/09/11 - Rest day Kathmandu

Lhotse Climb

05/10/11 - Kathmandu to Namche
05/11/11 - Namche to Dugla
05/12/11 - Dugla to Base Camp
05/13/11 - Base Camp Rest Day (wait for weather window)
05/14/11 - Base Camp Rest Day (wait for weather window)
05/15/11 - Base Camp Rest Day (wait for weather window)
05/16/11 - Base Camp to Camp 2
05/17/11 - Camp 2 to Camp 3
05/18/11 - Camp 3 to Camp 4
05/19/11 - Camp 4 to Summit to Camp 3
05/20/11 - Camp 3 to Camp 2
05/21/11 - Camp 2 to Base Camp
05/22/11 - Base Camp (last day day - sorting stuff)
05/23/11 - Base Camp to Pheriche
05/24/11 - Pheriche to Namche
05/25/11 - Namche to Luckla
05/26/11 - Luckla to Kathmandu

Rest Days

05/27/11 - Kathmandhu Rest Day
06/10/11 - Flight to Islamabad

Broad Peak Climb

06/11/11 - Fly to Islamabad
06/12/11 - Drive to Chilas
06/13/11 - Drive to Skardu
06/14/11 - Rest Day at Skardu
06/15/11 - Drive to Askole (3000m)
06/16/11 - Trek to Jhola
06/17/11 - Trek to Paiyu
06/18/11 - Day free at Paiyu for acclimatization (3600m)
06/19/11 - Trek to Urduka
06/20/11 - Trek to Goro II (4500m)
06/21/11 - Trek to Base Camp (4800m)
06/22/11 - Rest Day at Base Camp
06/23/11 - Climb from Base Camp to Camp 2 (6200m)
06/24/11 - Climb from Camp 2 to Low Camp 3 (7000m)
06/25/11 - First Summit Attemp (turn back due to high wind >60km), go down to Base Camp
06/26/11 - Rest Day at Base Camp
06/27/11 - Base Camp Rest Day (wait for weather window)
06/28/11 - Base Camp Rest Day (wait for weather window)
06/29/11 - Base Camp Rest Day (wait for weather window)
06/30/11 - Base Camp Rest Day (wait for weather window)
07/01/11 - Base Camp Rest Day (wait for weather window)
07/02/11 - Base Camp Rest Day (wait for weather window)
07/03/11 - Climb from Base Camp to Camp 2 (6200m)
07/04/11 - Climb from Camp 2 to Low Camp 3 (7000m) but an Avalanche ravaged our tent, we lost everything, we have to turn back. Back to Camp 2
07/05/11 - Go Down Camp 2 to Base Camp
07/06/11 - Base Camp Rest Day (wait for weather window)
07/07/11 - Base Camp Rest Day (wait for weather window)
07/08/11 - Base Camp Rest Day (wait for weather window)
07/09/11 - Base Camp Rest Day (wait for weather window)
07/10/11 - Base Camp Rest Day (wait for weather window)
07/11/11 - Base Camp Rest Day (wait for weather window)
07/12/11 - Climb from Base Camp to Camp 2 (6200m)
07/13/11 - Climb from Camp 2 to Camp 3 (7200m)
07/14/11 - Summit Attempt - Go up to the col - Got frosbite - Go down to Base Camp
07/15/11 - Base Camp Rest Day (recover from frosbite)
07/16/11 - Base Camp Rest Day (recover from frosbite)
07/17/11 - Base Camp Rest Day (recover from frosbite)
07/18/11 - Base Camp Rest Day (recover from frosbite)
07/19/11 - Base Camp Rest Day (recover from frosbite)
07/20/11 - Base Camp Rest Day (recover from frosbite)
07/21/11 - Base Camp Rest Day (recover from frosbite)
07/22/11 - Base Camp Rest Day (recover from frosbite)
07/23/11 - Climb from Base Camp to Camp 2 (6200m)
07/24/11 - Climb from Camp 2 to Camp 3 (7200m)
07/25/11 - Summit (8047m) - Go Down Camp 3
07/26/11 - Go Down Camp 3 to Base Camp
07/27/11 - Trek to K2 Base Camp (5100m)

K2 Climb

07/28/11 - Rest Day at K2 Base Camp (need to recover from Broad Peak Summit)
07/29/11 - Rest Day at K2 Base Camp (need to recover from Broad Peak Summit)
07/30/11 - Rest Day at K2 Base Camp (need to recover from Broad Peak Summit)
07/31/11 - Rest Day at K2 Base Camp (need to recover from Broad Peak Summit)
08/01/11 - Get ready for the summit push
08/02/11 - Climb from Base Camp to Camp 2 (6100m)
08/03/11 - Climb from Camp 2 to Camp 3 (7350m)
08/04/11 - Climb from Camp 3 to Low Camp 4 (7600m)
08/05/11 - Climb from Low Camp 4 to Camp 4 (8000m)
08/06/11 - Too windy - Summit Attempt Cancel - Go Down Camp 2
08/07/11 - Go Down Camp 2 to Base Camp

Trek Back from K2

08/08/11 - Pack at K2 base Camp and get ready to leave
08/09/11 - Trek down to Goro II
08/10/11 - Trek down to Jhola
08/11/11 - Trek down to Askole
08/12/11 - Drive to Skardu

Rest

08/13/11 - Rest day at Skardu (waiting for a flight)
08/14/11 - Fly to Islamabad
08/15/11 - Rest in Islamabad

Thanks to bloggers' input - Post had been removed

2011-08-16T16:34:00.002-04:00

Sophie has spent more than 80days above 4800m in the last 3 months

2011-08-15T02:38:00.001-04:00

How to qualify my Broad Peak climb in one word : Resilience

Broad Peak

Attempt #1 (summit scheduled June 26th) : We were climbing alpine style. During our summit push we got cut in a wind storm. We when down to Base Camp the same day

Attempt #2 (summit scheduled July 6th): After going through a wind storm, we finally reached Camp 3. But no tent as waiting for us. Our tent got covered up y an avalanche. We had to go down

Attempt #3 (summit scheduled on July 14th): Starting at 9:30pm, we climbed for about 13h and reached only 7900m. Snow was deep, and fixing rope took the team a long time, long enough to freeze my toes. I had a small frostbite at big toe, we had to go down. We when down to Base Camp (4800m) from 7900m

Attempt #4 : SUMMIT. I summit on july 25th !

K2 - we reached and sleep at Camp IV

K2's Attempt #1 (summit scheduled on august 6th): We should have start at 1am. Waking up at midnight, we'd checked on the weather every 30 minutes. But the wind did not slow down. At 5am we could see very high winds at the top, and at 7am it was a white out. Weather tuning sour, and the weather forecast predicating bad weather for the next day, we 've decided to go down.

National Day of Pakistan

2011-08-14T14:37:00.001-04:00

August 14th 2011 is the 71st National Day of Pakistan

learn more : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pakistan

Back to Islamabad

2011-08-13T08:55:00.011-04:00

I am back in Islamabad, Happy and Healthy

I have 2 weeks to rest and eat up before my next adventure : Climbing Shishapgma (8,013 m/26,289 ft) in Tibet, and Manaslu ( 8,156 m/26,759 ft) in Nepal

Pakistan : Baltoro Glacier view Broad Peak Camp 2

Sophie - chosen by FRANCE AMERIQUE magazine to be in the top 50 French people who have an influence in the USA.

2011-08-12T00:05:00.000-04:00

BREAKING NEWS !

For France-Amerique Magazine special summer issue, I have been chosen by France Amerique magazine to be in the top 50 French people who have an influence in the USA.

France Amerique EDITORIAL PROFILE

France-Amérique, also known as Le Journal Francais des États-Unis, is America’s largest and only nationwide French-language publication, serving an audience of French expatriates, Francophones and French-speaking Americans

http://www.france-amerique.com/

Here is the digital version of that July/August issue:

http://issuu.com/francepress/docs/july_august_2011?mode=embed&layout=http%3A%2F%2Fskin.issuu.com%2Fv%2Fdark%2Flayout.xml&showFlipBtn=true

** I just remind you that the numbers don't correspond to a ranking.

Back in Skardu

2011-08-11T11:33:00.000-04:00

We walked more than 10h every day for 3 days to trek out from K2 Base Camp to Askole. It was really tough for our feet which had been devastated with blisters .... Today Lakpa and I are in Skardu, happy!

Tomorrrow we will fly to Islamabad if the weather is good.

2011-08-11T05:13:00.001-04:00

Toutes les Nouvelles de Versailles (France)10 août 2011

Clic = zoOM

Appel de Sophie du K2 camp 2

2011-08-06T10:49:00.002-04:00

Appel de Sophie à Yves Denis (Paris samedi 06/08/2011 à 15h45)

Vendredi, nous avons atteint le camp 4. Ce matin, de 00h00 à 03h00, nous nous sommes réveillés Lakpa, Louis et moi toutes les 30 minutes pour surveiller la météo. A 05h00, il y avait trop de vent et surtout un voile blanc de tempête qui ne permet pas de prendre des repères au risque de se perdre. D'autre part le camp de base nous annonce que la pression tombe et que le temps va se dégrader. Nous avons décidé de redescendre, l'équipe étant trop réduite, la montée devenait trop dangereuse, c'est dommage car physiquement et moralement, le sommet était à notre portée.
Pour moi la montée du K2 s'est faite en 4 jours, dans des conditions météo formidables, car nous n'avions de la neige que jusqu'aux genoux, le paysage était magnifique et j'étais très émue. Ce sera une expérience inoubliable.
Je referai une tentative, mais avec une équipe solide car nous montons près de 1000 mètres par jour.
Après de nombreux soucis avec les porteurs, pourtant payés et qui au C2 nous disent "on est malade, on ne peut pas monter" ou "c'est trop lourd", nous nous sommes chargés nous même d'aller rechercher du matériel, portant l'oxygène et 200m de corde, soit 6 kg en plus.
Samedi 6 nous avons donc fait la descente et nous sommes au camp 2. Demain nous allons du C2 au camp de base.
Le 8 nous aurons redescendu le matériel. Puis il y aura 12 heures de marche pour atteindre Skardou et enfin 6 heures pour atteindre Kachgar d'où je prendrai un avion pour Islamabad où je doit être reçue à l'Ambassade de France pour une conférence de presse.
Au programme 15 jours de repos, (je dors actuellement sur mes cotes !)
Encore 2 sommets et je rentre en France vers le 18 novembre, peut-être le 11.

News from the explorersweb: Summit day postponed

2011-08-05T07:30:00.000-04:00

Here is the link of the article http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=20276
and hereunder an extract

Posted: Aug 05, 2011 02:52 am EDT
(Angela Benavides) Tough conditions prevented most K2 summit climbers from reaching C4 as planned. Only the ABC team members Gerfried Göschl, Alex Txikon and Kilian Volken managed to reach the camp's location at 7,900m, while all other teams were forced to stop for the night between C3 and C4.
"The delayed climbers are carrying ropes and essential gear to fix some of the mountain's upper sections," Alex home team explained. "Thus, Gerfried, Alex and Kilian have spent all night waiting for the rest and evaluating their options: to remain over 24 hours at nearly 8,000 meters, or to abandon the attempt. Finally, this morning they decided to go on."
"I am feeling strong - and I've worked so hard on this attempt," Alex said on the sat-phone. "It's worth to wait one day and try to top-out all together tomorrow."
Noone has summited K2 since the dramatic push of 2008. Alex, on the contrary, has already managed a GI+G2 double header and now aims to make a triplet of it with K2.
Meanwhile in BC, FTA's Chris confirmed the news and reported on today's plans: the climbers will fix the Bottleneck. FTA's team has been reduced to Sophie Denis, Lakpa and two HAPS's, after rob Pringer turned back yesterday.

Chris' phone call: Camp 3 in spite of high wind (and on the way to camp 4)

2011-08-04T14:36:00.001-04:00

Chris called FTA office in (see this link FTA blog) to let us know that the summit push is under way and they reached C3 on the 3rd as planned. Sophie, Lakpa, Farhad, Aziz and Said were in C3 last night and hope to push to C4 today. Rob came back down to BC after pushing towards C3 and is reconsidering his options at this time.
The winds have been very strong even at base camp so they will be watching carefully this afternoon and evening for the very latest reports before making a final call on a summit bid on the 5th. All members are safe and sound and Chris will have more later today on how the push to C4 has gone. Stay tuned!

Chris a appelé le siège de FTA et les a informé que la route vers le sommet a commencé. Ils ont atteint le camp 3 le 3 aout comme prévu. Sophie Lakpa Farhad Aziz et Said étaient au camp 3 la nuit dernière et espèrent atteindre la camp 4 aujourd'hui (le 4 mais nous n'avons pas confirmation pour l'instant). Rob est finalement retourné au camp de base (après avoir atteint le camp 3).
Même au camp de base, les vents ont été assez violents, à partir du camp 4 (le 4) ils devront donc être très attentifs à l'évolution des conditions météo l'après midi et en début de soirée avant de partir pour le sommet le 5 (ils doivent passer un coup de fil avant de se lancer).
Tous les membres du groupe se portent bien .
Restez en ligne,
les choses peuvent vite évoluer dans les prochaines heures

News from the explorerweb:August 4th 2011

2011-08-04T07:21:00.006-04:00

Link to the article: http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=20274 and an extract of the article hereunder

Posted: Aug 04, 2011 02:16 pm EDT
(By Dave Hancock)
In Skardu, FTA leader Dave Hancock just submitted the following report to ExplorersWeb. FTA lost a client on Broad Peak and have a bunch pushing for the summit of K2 right now. Here goes a debrief and thoughts straight from the horse's mouth.

High hopes for K2 tonight
By Dave Hancock

"There is significant anticipation surrounding K2 tonight both amongst the asssembled returned climbers and outfitters in Skardu, and no doubt the respective BC teams at the foot of the hill. By various reports up to 17 climbers are poised at camp 4 for a summit attempt tomorrow, including FTA members Sophie Denis, Rob Springer and Lapka, and our two HAP's.
A huge high pressure system has parked itself across the top of northern Pakistan, and while some European models are predicting possibly higher winds late tomorrow, all indicators locally are fuelling hopes for a near perfect weather window. As the suns sets this evening across the Indus basin in Skardu, there is not a breath of wind and the temperature remains well into the high 20's celsius. K2 has not seen a person stand upon her summit since 2008.

Article dans le Parisien (french newspaper): "Sophie Denis s'attaque au mont K2"

2011-08-03T02:15:00.001-04:00

Sophie's phone call: K2 Camp 2 the second

2011-08-02T12:12:00.001-04:00

Today the international group leaved Base camp (5100m) at 3h40am.
The group is composed of 14 people and due to a lot of snow, all the people have decided to follow the CESEN road (K2 roads including CESEN road).
At the beginning of the climbing day, Sophie has difficulties to feel concerned by the climbing but after 2h00 of effort, the 60° of the mountain slope make her back to business with her well known dynamism. Broad Peak was emotionally a big challenge and all the climbers need time to focus on K2.
For information, with a slope higher than 45°, every fall and slide can not be stopped by the climber itself and can be the last one (be careful do not confuse the slope in ° and %).

At 12h the second, the whole group is in camp 2 around 6000M
the third, the group will be in camp 3
the fourth, the group will be in camp 4
And the 5: Summit day

Aujourd'hui le groupe international de 14 personnes a quitté le camp de base (5100m) vers 3h40 du matin. A cause de conditions de neige et météo assez moyenne, l'ensemble des grimpeurs a décidé de parcourir la voie CESEN (K2 roads including CESEN road).
Au début de la montée Sophie a un moral bas, mais après 2h00, la pente atteignant les 60° Sophie est obligée de se concentrer, retrouve son dynamisme et oublie ses pensées négatives. A midi, le groupe est au camp 2 vers 6000 mètres.
Les objectifs sont les suivants:
le 3 au camp 3
le 4 au camp 4
le 5 au sommet.

FTA K2/Broad Peak 2011 - Update from K2 BC

2011-07-31T15:10:00.007-04:00

From this link: FTA blog

Chris has called in with an update from K2 where the team is now resting in preparation for a summit bid. Lakpa, Chris and the HAPs (Farhad, Aziz and Said) have now carried gear (rope, tents etc) and oxygen in C2 in preparation for a summit push this week. Everyone is back at BC with a rest day planned for August 1st. As it stands they plan to ascend to C2 on the 2nd, C3 on the 3rd, C4 on the 4th and then make a summit bid on the 5th. They are running into deep snow high on the route and this will represent a real challenge to establishing camp on the Shoulder in the days ahead so there will be a need for sharing the hard work to do.

They are hopeful to make a bid on Friday the 5th and the weather will dictate this possibility. The predictions have been for calm summit winds for the 2nd to 5th but there looks now to be rising summit winds on the 5th so that window may close before they can make this push in which case they will hope for another window the following week.

At this time FTA members Sophie, Rob and Lakpa will plan to make a summit bid with Chris planning to be in C2 in support during the bid. Farhad, Aziz and Said plan to deposit O2 and other gear in C4 and return to C3 on the 3rd. It is a real challenge for them to deliver these supplies to C4 and our success will depend a lot on how successful they are in their role. They have worked very hard for our team on Broad Peak and have been a tremendous asset to the expedition as a whole.

Chris notes that the group of climbers now assembled on the Cesen are largely familiar to each other and that they are cooperating very well. Among them are FTA alum Alex Txicon who became the youngest Basque climber to reach an 8000m summit in 2003 on Broad Peak. As well Bruno Buchet who was with FTA in 2005 on Broad Peak is on the hill and joining to push. Fabrizio and Kinga who had planned to climb a different route but have been forced by conditions back on to known ground. Christian, Gerfried and more round out the assembled group. Initially teams were to have been on up to three different routes but now all hopes lie in the Cesen from the Pakistan side.

That's It: Broad Peak and New World record for Sophie

2011-07-25T14:33:00.020-04:00

On July 25th, Sophie reached the Broad Peak summit. It was her fourth attempt with 23 hours of climbing. With Broad Peak summit, she becomes a new world record woman with three 8000m in less than 3 months: Cho Oyu - Lhotse - Broad Peak.

Sophie a atteint le sommet du Broad Peak le 25 Juillet après une ascension de 23 heures lors de sa quatrième tentative. Elle bat ainsi un record du monde en ayant atteint 3 sommets de plus de 8000m en 3 mois: Cho Oyu - Lhotse - Broad Peak.

Sophie climbed CHO OYU and summit on May 5^th
Cho Oyu is the 6th highest peak in the world (8201m) and is part of the Greater Himalaya, where the central Asia plateau meets the Indian subcontinent.
Sophie climbed LHOTSE and summit on May 19^th
Lhotse is the 5th highest mountain in the world - a mountain in the central Himalayas on the border of Tibet and Nepal (8516m) and is connected to Everest via the South Col.
Sophie climbed BROAD PEAK and summit on July 25^th
Broad Peak is the 12th highest mountain in the word 8047m in Pakistan.

After one little week of rest, Sophie will continue her challenge by climbing K2 (picture hereunder) on August 4th and 5th.

More informations about the others climbers of the expedition and Jeff's accident are on the FTA blog:
http://fieldtouring.blogspot.com/2011/07/fta-k2broad-peak-2011-team-back-in-bc.html#more

Never Give up : A fourth attempt planned July the 18th

2011-07-15T08:11:00.015-04:00

After a first try abort due to a windy day, a second because of an avalanche, the third has been the occasion to encounter a very cold day. The whole group going up (with groups coming from Argentina and Spain) has stopped their effort around 7800/ 7900m and has decided to come back to the camp.
Dealing with a weather window, she left at 4am to the summit and after 13 hours of climbing since camp 3, tired to walk in a deep snow, she stopped a moment to add socks. As a prevention against these cold conditions, she got a stove in the bag and use it to dry her first socks she wears. At that time she saw her toes starting to be frozen so she decided to go down to camp 3 where the others groups joined her few times later. Her actual co-climber decided to give up. Her current planning is to wait for a possible weather window on the 18th with a new climbing partner to help her to walk in the deep snow. If the new attempt does not succeed, she will join an international group of climber to climb K2 and will come back to Broad Peak later as she knows the way to the summit since her last summit push.
Everything is going well, and she has not forgotten one of her motto: "Go up is an option, go down is mandatory".

Depuis que Sophie fait de l'alpinisme, une de ses craintes est de se geler les doigts, des mains ou des pieds. Après une première montée arrêtée pour cause de vents, une seconde suite à une avalanche qui a emporté son matériel au camp 3, cette fois c'est le froid qui a eu raison vers 7800/ 7900m de tous les groupes qui montaient.
Sophie s'est rapprochée de groupes argentins et espagnols. Espérant une amélioration de la météo, elle est partie vers le sommet à 4H00 du matin et après 13h d'ascension depuis le camp 3, fatiguée caril fallait se relayer pour faire la trace dans la neige, elle s'est arrêtée pour mettre des chaussettes supplémentaires et comme, par precaution et malgré le poids supplémentaire, elle avait emporté aussi un réchaud, elle a seché celles qu'elle avait. C'est alors qu'elle a aperçu un début de gelure de son gros orteil. C'est pourquoi elle a décidé de redescendre au camp 3, où elle a été rejointe par les autres groupes qui ont finalement renoncé. Son partenaire abandonne et son programme actuel est d'attendre une nouvelle opportunité vers le 18 juillet en embauchant quelqu'un qui pourra l'aider à faire la trace dans la neige. Si cela ne se fait pas, elle envisage de rejoindre un groupe d'une vingtaine d'alpinistes et de revenir éventuellement sur le Broad Peak maintenant qu'elle "connait le chemin". internationaux sur le K2
Elle a un moral d'enfer et est très fiere d'avoir géré cette montée en prenant les bonnes décisions.

Photo - Summit Attemp #3

2011-07-13T09:12:00.001-04:00

July 12th to Juy 15th

Lakpa and Sophie made their third Broad Peak Summit attempt

Day #1 - They climbed from Base Camp to Camp 2. We were expecting very deep due to the heavy recent snowing. But not at all, the snow was crispy, and ankle high. Just perfect to climb.

We joined for the summit push a german team and a spnish/argentinian team. The fact that we not only 2 in the mountain make a big difference from a breaking trail stand point.

Day #2 - All the teams went to Camp 3. Great team work today - Spanish/argentinian broke the trail at the morning, followed by the Germans, then by sophie and Lakpa. they arrived at Camp 3 early afternoon, leaving them few hours rest before push.

Day #2/3 - All the teams left at 9:30pm. Breaking the trail was very difficult. The snow was on some sections blue ice to very deep snow. We fixed about 200m ropes. After spending all night climbing, at 8:30am Sophie suddenly felt her feet very cold. Expecting that will happen, Sophie and Lakpa carry with them a MSR reactor to boil water or warm them up. At 7900m, Sophie took off her boots, sock,, bear feet she warmed up her feet with the stove. Dry her boots, put on new socks, and go down right away. She SAVED her feet from frostbite. She ended up with a tiny frostbite at the very top of her big toe.

Sophie always put safety first. She carried about 1kg more (Gas, stove, pot) when every grams count. But she noticed the day before summit that the sun will hit the face only late in the morning meaning that she knew that she will spend more than 12h in the dark, and in the cold

All the teams turn back shortly after Sophie and Lakpa.

Sophie and Lakpa went down to Base Camp the same day.

Explorersweb (dated June 27th 2011): "Sophie Denis, who wants them all, and she wants them fast"

2011-07-08T07:42:00.002-04:00

http://explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=20220

Jamais 2 sans 3: Nouvelle tentative pour le sommet plannifiée (New summit Bid on 10-13 july)

2011-07-05T17:59:00.002-04:00

Lors de la dernière tentative pour le sommet, Sophie et Lakpa ont eu la surprise de ne pas retrouver leurs tentes au camp 3. Ces dernières ont été emportées par une avalanche pendant leur absence .

Il y a vraiment certains endroits ou on est content de ne pas être.

Après avoir rebroussé chemin pour cause de vents violents (>80km/h) lors de leur première tentative, ils se sont retrouvés dans une situation délicate pour leur deuxième tentative.

Malgré un chemin en partie de nuit, le retour vers le camp de base à la lueur des frontales s'est passé sans encombre.

Pour rétablir la situation, de nouvelles tentes vont leur être acheminées afin de ré installer le camp 3.

Ce nouveau matériel devrait leur permettre de faire une troisième tentative entre les 10 et 13 juillet pour Broad Peak avant que Sophie ne parte littéralement à l'assaut du mythique K2, en un temps record entre les 22 et 25 juillet.

Broad Peak sera alors le 3ème sommet de plus de 8000m réalisé par Sophie depuis le début de son challenge en Avril, après Cho Oyu et Lhotse.

At the second summit bid, Sophie and Lakpa discovered that their tents at camp3 have disappeared under an avalanche. So they decided to go back to base camp to find a roof for the night.

Some new tents will be sent to them and a new summit bid could be done around July 10-13^th before leaving for K2 around July 22-25^th.

FTA K2/Broad Peak 2011 - Second round of acclimatization done... & summit bids ahead for Sophie and Lakpa!

2011-07-04T13:28:00.001-04:00

From Stu in the USA office
July 4, 2011

Chris has called in from BC to let us know that everyone is well and that most of team is in BC resting up for a summit bid. Sophie and Lakpa have remained high and are hoping for a break on Thursday in the winds to make a summit attempt. The remainder of the team is down at BC resting up for the next few days and then will hope for a good window perhaps around the 9th or 10th.
The camp 4 that sometimes we establish is often placed on a small flat area at around 7500m and it is quite a spot! It can reduce the summit day by a few crucial hours and especially when the summit ridge is giving short windows of low wind this can be the small advantage making a summit bid possible.
The views from C4 are spectacular but one rarely gets much sleep there between the altitude and the anticipation of leaving early for a summit bid. The sun comes onto the slope quite late in the morning so it is a very cold start and the ridge offers the first rays of warming sun. With summit winds to remain at or above 30km/hr Sophie and Lakpa will have their work cut out for them to make it to the top and back safely.
They will have to negotiate the summit ridge which is quite steep on both sides and offers little protection from wind. We have seen summits in winds like this before but they are very demanding and most parties will wait for a lower winds. As Chris says in his dispatch Lakpa and Sophie will try to thread the weather needle later this week so we wish a great window for them!
After reaching the top or a high point then one must negotiate a winding ridge back to the relative safety of the col at 7850m. From there it is a short rappel/downclimb to the main slopes leading back to high camp. This upper slope has a few narrow crevasses which must be negotiated. They can be hard to see from above and have been the site of at least a few serious accidents requiring evacs from high on the hill. After winding through the upper slopes it is finally back to the warm tent and a hot brew!
We'll have more news shortly about any summit bids!

Photo - Summit Attemp #2

2011-07-03T02:26:00.001-04:00

July 3rd to Juy 6th

Lakpa and Sophie made their second Broad Peak Summit attempt

Day #1 - They climbed from Base Camp to Camp 2. Snow was deep and sticky. Weather was nice almost all day.

Day #2 - After a late start due to a wind storm, Sophie and Lakpa climbed up to camp 3. As getting closer to Camp 3, snow got deeper, and deeeper, getting from knee high to hip high. Once arrived at camp 3 no tent, they try to dig at few different places where their tent could have been. Good effort but not successful. As it was starting to get dark, Sophie and Lakpa decide to trun back and go down to Camp 2. It was heartbreaking as it meant as well that they ost everything and had to give up their 2nd summit attempt.

Day #3 - They went down to Base Camp

Not that time: go back to Base Camp

2011-06-26T17:14:00.000-04:00

26/06/2011
From Chris last call:
Martha and Sophie just got back to base camp few hours ago after unfortunately not coming in by peak. So they went up and was just really really windy and they weren't able to really get much higher than in camp 3. So but you know they must be ----- but that's great and now they're super trying to crunch. So all is well.

Photo : Attempt #1 - Summit Push

2011-06-26T05:24:00.003-04:00

June 26th 2011 - Lakpa and Sophie made their first Summit attempt

Day #3 - They start climbing at 11pm for their summit push. On their way to the top, they got in a wind storm early morning. Winds being too strong, they have to turn back. They left tent and summit gear at Camp 3 and went down to base camp.

FTA Broad Peak & K2 2011 - Summit push already under way for Sophie and Lakpa!

2011-06-25T13:35:00.000-04:00

From Stu in the USA office
25th June, 2011

Chris has called in with the latest at BC which includes that the team already has two members, Lakpa Sherpa and Sophie Denis, with designs on a rapid summit bid ahead of the fixed lines and established camps!

They have been having great weather and everyone if feeling well (despite a few GI challenges here and there). They have been working well with two other teams on the hill, Altitude Junkies and DAV, and the sense of camaraderie is running high. They have the rope fixed already to C2 and will be pushing the route through to C3 in the days ahead.
Coming off of summits of Everest (Lakpa) and Cho Oyu and Lhotse (Sophie), the plan had been to push up as high as they could go and see how they felt. Well they are feeling great and going to make a quick bid for the top Alpine style. The summit winds are expected to rise by the end of the day on the 26th so they hope to be up and back to high camp well ahead of the end of the day. I have climbed with Lakpa a number of times and he is one of the fastest climbers i have seen. Sophie put in some very quick times on Cho Oyu and Lhotse so they seem to make a good team!
We'll have all the news coming as they go for a very early summit on Broad Peak.

Phone call from the leader of the expedition

2011-06-25T08:07:00.000-04:00

Here is a phone call from Chris, leader of Broad Peak expedition for FTA
http://fieldtouring.blogspot.com/

Photo : Attempt #1 - Climb Camp 2 to Camp 3

2011-06-25T04:40:00.005-04:00

June 25th 2011 - Lakpa and Sophie made their first Summit attempt

Day #2 - They climbed alpine style from Camp 2 to Low Camp 3

Beautiful day - Snow was really deep - Breaking trail was exhausting

Photo : Attempt #1 - Climb Base Camp to Camp 2

2011-06-24T04:28:00.001-04:00

June 24th 2011 - Lakkpa and Sophie made their first Summit attempt

Day #1 - They climbed alpine style from Base Camp to Camp 2

FTA K2/Broad Peak 2011 - In Goro II today and on to Broad Peak BC June 22nd

2011-06-22T13:52:00.000-04:00

from stu in the usa office,
21 June 2011

Chris has called in from Goro II and left a great audio disapatch below. In it he shares the latest news from the K2/Broad Peak team. They had a great day trekking in from Urdukas and enjoyed a warm (25°C) day with superb views of Gasherbrum IV, Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak and Masherbrum!

In a normal year our team would tromp on up to the famed Concordia camp site and then take a short walk the next morning to Broad Peak BC. For the first time that i know of there is insufficient snow in Concordia and the team will be skipping this campsite on their way to Broad Peak base camp. By the end of last season the snow loss was dramatically greater than in typical years. This was due in large part to the conditions that caused the horrific flooding across great swathes of Pakistan. It remains to be seen how this will play out on the 8000m peaks in the Karakoram and potentially may mean icier or rockier conditions on Broad Peak and K2.

Sophie New Website online

2011-06-16T23:58:00.009-04:00

www.sophiedenis.com

I'm leaving today

2011-06-16T00:15:00.000-04:00

I'm so happy

Broad Peak, K2 here we come !!!

Broad Peak K2 Climbing Strategy

2011-06-13T10:49:00.002-04:00

BROAD PEAK
Jun. 14th - Rest day at Sarkdu - Folding ropes and checking tents
Jun. 15th - Rest day at Sarkdu - Last shopping By jeeps to Askole (8-9 hrs) at 3000 meters.
Approach
Jun. 16th - By jeeps to Askole (8-9 hrs) at 3000 meters
Jun. 17th - Drive from Dumordu River to Jhola (8-9 hrs).
Jun. 18th - Trek to Paiyu, good views of Baltoro and trango group (7 hrs).
Jun. 19th - Day free at Paiyu for acclimatization (3600m).
Jun. 20th - Trek to Khuburtze (5-8 hrs): 4000 m.
Jun. 21st - Trek to Urdukas: 4-5 hrs walk mostly along the crest of lateral moraine
Jun. 22nd - Trek to Goro II: Glacier for 3-4 hrs to the camp site at 4500 meters
Jun. 23rd - Trek to Concordia: 5-6 hours slightly easy walk, with spectacular views
Jun. 24th - Trek to Broad Peak Base Camp
Jun. 25th - Rest day at Base Camp
Jun. 26th - Rest day at Base Camp (wait for weather window)
Broad Peak Climbing Strategy
Once good weather window, I will try a Summit attempt which would follow this itinerary:
Day 1 : Base Camp to Camp 1
Day 2 : Camp 1 to Camp 2
Day 3 : Camp 2 to Camp 3
Day 4 : Camp 3 to Summit to Camp 3
Day 5 : Base Camp

Broad Peak Camps

1 week rest

K2 climbing strategy
when good weather window, I will try a Summit attempt which should follow the itinerary below:
Day 1 : Base Camp to Camp 1
Day 2 : Camp 1 to Camp 2
Day 3 : Camp 2 to Camp 3
Day 4 : Camp 3 to Camp 4
Day 5 : Camp 4 to Summit to Camp 3
Day 6 : Camp 3 to Base Camp

Please note that we will climbing the Cesen Route.

Red triangles will be our Camps

Route of K2 summit day

I'm in Pakistan

2011-06-12T03:09:00.001-04:00

I arrived to Pakistan on June 10th at 9pm.

I met most of the teammate. It is an international group with farily diversified climbing background. This group will climb Broad Peak then I will move on to K2, with Lakpa, Rob and Chris.

The initial plan was flying to Skardu. It is a 45minutes flight. Unfortunately, all the flights had been cancelled since June 6th due to bad weather. The Authority informed us that the next flight might be on June 15th. In other words, our flight should have been scheduled not before ~ the 18th of June. So we’ve decided to drive to Skardu.

The drive took us 2 full days. Islamabad to Chilaz : 18h drive, Chilaz to Skardu : 13h drive.

We arrived last night, exhausted....

Today we are checking the tents and fold the ropes. Tomorrow we will do a last minute shopping, and pack our bags. We are allowed to take 3 bags of 25kg each.

Sophie's 5 New Climbing Route Published in the American Alpine Journal

2011-06-08T13:04:00.001-04:00

It is with great honor that I inform you that my 5 new climbing routes (mentioned below) had been published in the new edition of the prestigious American Alpine Journal.

In 2010, my partner and I've opened 3 new climbing routes (level MD+) in the Andean Central Range in June and 2 new climbing routes (level MD+) in the Andean White Range in July. In 2010, my partner and I've opened 3 new climbing routes (level MD+) in the Andean Central Range in June and 2 new climbing routes (level MD+) in the Andean White Range in July.
Icing on the cream, I've realized 4 first woman mountain summits.

Why did I call my new climbing route as follow:

- Huantsan West Summit: " Les Trois Mousquetaire"

Because our climb success is the result of a great team work.
The Three Musketeers who live by the motto "all for one, one for all" ("tous pour un, un pour tous")
- Huantsan North Summit : "Illusion"
Because climbing that face was full of surprises (mainly bad surprises) and it was nothing close of what we were expecting

- North Face of Suiricocha : "Everything Is Possible"
Everything Is Possible is my motto. It is what drive my life and allow me to go beyond my comfort zone

- West Face of Manon Dos: "Beyond Survivor"
In honor to the cancer survivors

- West Face of Vicunita : "Sacred Ayahuasca"
In honor to the Inca culture

read more : http://followtheclimb.blogspot.com/search/label/Peru%20Peak%202010

American Alpine Journal
From Wikipedia

The American Alpine Journal is an annual magazine published by the American Alpine Club. Its mission is "to document and communicate mountain exploration."

Subtitled as a compilation of "The World's Most Significant Climbs," the magazine contains feature stories about notable new routes and ascents, written by the climbers, as well as a large "Climbs and Expeditions" section containing short notes by climbers about new and noteworthy achievements.

Cool first ....

2011-06-07T03:32:00.002-04:00

Cool News : I've just learnt that I am the

Youngest French lady climber to climb Lhotse

http://explorersweb.com/stats/news.php?id=20198

Daily Video Journal of the Sophie's Lhotse climb

http://followtheclimb.blogspot.com/2011/05/daily-video-journal-of-sophie-denis.html

Daily Video Journal of the Sophie Denis' Lhotse climb

2011-05-27T00:46:00.158-04:00

Day 1 - 05-14-11

Lhotse Base Camp : First weather report feedback
On the 18/19th the wind should low down early morning and it should start snowing in the afternoon. So we are trying to hit a very small weather window just few hours of ok weather.

Feedback on weather report

http://vimeo.com/24160778

Day 2 - 05-15-11
Lhotse Base Camp : We are leaving tomorrow morning
I am pretty sick. I have a nasty sore throat and some stomach issues. Due to bad weather we postpone by a day our climbing summit push.We are leaving tomorrow instead of today . I am happy because I have one more rest day to recover.

http://vimeo.com/24253005

Day 3 - 05-16-11

Lhotse Base Camp to Camp 2

http://vimeo.com/24264424

Day 4 - 05-17-11
Camp 2 to Camp 3

http://vimeo.com/24253752

Day 5 - 05-18-11
Camp 3 to Camp 4

http://vimeo.com/24263713

DAY 6 - SUMMIT PUSH

We start climbing pretty late due to the bad weather condition. It was snowing for 12h straight. We start at 4am, then along the climb we had the bad surprise to discover that the line was not fixed. So Tsering and I start fixing the line. We fixed about 100m. Thankfully, the Himex Sherpa team came up that day o fix the line, so our job was done.

Early Morning Feedback

http://vimeo.com/24254398

Feedback before climbing the icy couloir

http://vimeo.com/24325968

We fixed 100m rope - happy to have helped ...

http://vimeo.com/24326764

Himex Sherpa fixing the line on Lhotse - deep snow

http://vimeo.com/24327394

almost there ....

http://vimeo.com/24254774

Last steps ...

http://vimeo.com/24340833

5m away from the top

http://vimeo.com/24341338

Sophie's big smile at the top of Mount Lhotse. Sophie summit at 3pm on 05/19/11

Panoramic view from the summit of Lhotse. (you can see Makalu, Everest, Cho Oyu ... )

http://vimeo.com/24254888

View of Everest on the way down from Lhotse Summit .... SPLENDID

http://vimeo.com/24342408

Day 7 - 05-20-11
Camp 3 to Camp 2

We start from Camp 3 pretty late due to the bad weather. Once arrived at Camp 2 at 11am, we had lunch. When we finished packing our personal stuff at Camp, 2 it was already noon. We were tired from our climb and it was a bite late to go to the ice fall. So we've decided to stay and sleep at Camp 2. (We are in no rush, so let's take it easy and try to take a minimum of risk in the Ice fall.)

http://vimeo.com/24254923

Day 8 - 05-21-11
Camp 2 to Base Camp

Breakfast at Camp 2

http://vimeo.com/24352199

World Record of Altitude in Paragliding

(the tiny red dot is Babu and Lakpa view from Camp 1)

http://vimeo.com/24354370

Crossing crevasse in Kumbu Ice fall is a very slow and quite dangerous process

video coming soon

Pumori big Avalanche

When you climb Mount Everest or Lhotse, you mainly hear 2 sounds : the sound of avalanches and the sound of crevasses cracking (under your tent)

video coming soon

Day 9 - 05-22-11

Last Day at Base Camp

http://vimeo.com/24344340